Skip to content
Join our Newsletter

Food and drink

The great South African Cape’r: An offering of wines with hope

My fourth trip to the Cape since the mid-1990s was a revelation. I wasn't expecting such a major shift in attitude and quality. Clearly, South African producers have received the message that just showing up post-sanctions isn't good enough. What I saw this time was a much more determined industry that is measuring its progress against its international rivals and not the farm across the valley - and the results are exciting.

It was the white wines that really impressed me. Clearly, producers have the potential to improve the image of South African wine on the international stage by leading with their whites and following with their reds.

In this case, sauvignon blanc, chenin blanc and some promising Rhone-style blends may be what's required to capture the imagination of consumers, rather than many of the uninspired red wines that have made their way to Canada.

Certainly syrah is a viable grape for Cape producers, although I'm surprised to see so many wineries employing the "shiraz" moniker versus "syrah", given the current movement among North American palates to abandon, cheap, entry-level shiraz labels, regardless of their origin.

Blends both red and white seem quite promising and while I can hardly believe I'm saying it, merlot appears to have a bright future with its relatively low alcohol and fruit and acid balance. Unfortunately, we saw little if any pinot this time, leaving us to reserve judgment on the finicky grape.

As for South African pinotage, it essentially remains an enigma. Notwithstanding some excellent individual bottlings, there are simply too many uneven examples to judge what good pinotage is and what it should be worth. To call it a signature varietal of the Cape seems an injustice to the many emerging blends and solo grape varieties made about South Africa. For me, pinotage is like Chilean carmenère - a curiosity at best, but not a variety you want to hang your hat on. That said, I did sample some tasty pinotage rosé. Go figure.

On the bright side, consumers should embrace the Wines of Origin or W.O. appellation system used in South Africa. It's reasonably concise using mostly three levels of names to quickly bring you to the origin of the wine. In fact, I get the feeling we may like it more than South African producers who, for some strange reason, choose to put the most important information about their wine (i.e. where it comes from) on the back label instead of on the front of the bottle for the whole world to see.

If soil and site is your only point of difference, why put it on the back label? South Africa's three-tiered geographic markers (regions-districts-wards) need more exposure and should be readily seen on front labels and maps. I reinforce this by relating that I get three main questions about wine from my readers: How much is it? Where does it come from? And where can I buy it?

Broad descriptors like "Western Cape" and "Coastal" may seem like an easy solution for producers, but so were "California," "South Australia" and Chile's "Central Valley." Today, these vague regional or state appellations have about as much appeal to savvy wine drinkers as a cork in a $10 bottle of rosé. If terroir is as important as everyone seems to think it is, then should it not be reflected on the label? Besides, it is passive, cheap marketing that brands your origin in a way a tiger, kangaroo or lizard never could.

By the end of this visit, my sense is that South African growers are only now just dissecting their sub-regions. As established as Stellenbosch and Paarl are, I'm guessing you will come to know the names of Darling, Somerset West, Constantia, Robertson and many more in the same way you know the wine regions of Sonoma Valley or Paso Robles, California.

It's been the same scenario globally, where more information and research has inspired locals to look at more challenging sites to produce even better wine. Know that there's a growing cadre of young South Africans and internationals that will make a difference sooner than later across the Cape.

Perhaps the best news of all is that British Columbia, with its plethora of private wine stores, is uniquely positioned to easily absorb a wide range of South African labels and perhaps be the new Canadian beachhead for South African wine.

So as summer unfolds across the province, consider the following South African wines as something new to discover and add to your wine résumé. There will be plenty more to come.

Boekenhoutskloof 2004 The Wolftrap, Western Cape, South Africa $15
Wolftrap mixes syrah, mourvèdre and viognier into a supple palate with smoked meat, peppery, plummy fruit.

Glen Carlou 2005 Syrah, Paarl, South Africa $30

Rich dark juicy plummy fruit that is ripe, dense and muscular. Fine value.

Goats Do Roam 2005 Red, South Africa $16

This clever play on words blends a variety of Rhone grapes with a bit of pinotage to make a tasty, spicy juicy red perfect for hamburgers.

Mulderbosch 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Stellenbosch, Coastal Region, South Africa $22
Intense mineral, grassy gooseberry flavours flecked with jalapeno and grapefruit. Oysters, anyone?

Porcupine Ridge Syrah 2007, Coastal Region, South Africa $18
Fresh, round red wine with supple tannins and rich tobacco, peppery, smoked meat, roasted pepper and cherry jam flavours. A barbecue special.

Robertson Winery 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Breede River Valley, South Africa $10
Bright tropical fruit aroma flavours with warm bits of candied pineapple and cool bits of green apple skin. Balanced, refreshing, juicy and affordable.

Robertson Winery Number One Constitution Road Shiraz 2005, Breede River Valley, South Africa $40
Fine blackberry jam, coffee, peppery, spicy, meaty, smoky leather, floral, plum flavours. Fine intensity and ripeness. Best with rich dishes: duck or roast lamb.

The Winery of Good Hope 2008 Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, Coastal Region, South Africa $14
Old bush vines in the Helderberg area of Stellenbosch are responsible for this delightfully fresh and juicy chenin. If pears, limes and bright acidity appeal to you for summer, this is the wine to drink.

Anthony Gismondi is a globetrotting wine writer who makes his home in West Vancouver, British Columbia. For more of his thoughts on wine log onto www.gismondionwine.com