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Get Stuffed - Asparagus

For the sophisticated palette

Nurtured in the garden, treated with care in the kitchen, asparagus is a delicate treat

As a kid, asparagus was on the list of my "most hated vegetables." Not only was the flavour too strong but the texture combination of mushy and stringy was enough to leave me gagging. It was not until later, when my palette had become slightly more sophisticated that I dared to try the vegetable again. When cooked properly, it should be crisp-tender with an elegant, yet distinctive taste; it is now one of my favourite vegetables.

When I met my husband (and his vegetable garden) he showed me the new spears poking up out of the soil, ready to be plucked and ripe for eating. I was shocked. It seemed so wrong to harvest a growing shoot, cutting it off clean at soil level, but he assured me that another spear would grow in its place. As long as one or two are left to grow into tall ferns which provide nutrients to the subterranean crown (underground stem), the plant will continue to produce year after year.

Asparagus is one of the first vegetables to grace the spring time table. The bright green spears, often tinged with purple, make a welcome addition to many meals as the flavour is versatile and complements most entrees. In Germany asparagus has attained an unrivalled level of nobility with a spring festival devoted entirely to menus featuring the vegetable, called Spargelfest. Spargel, unlike the apple-green spears that we know and love, refers to white asparagus which is the same plant but with a special twist. White asparagus has been prevented from turning green by depriving it of chlorophyll – producing sunlight. This is a labour of love for the white asparagus farmer as the soil around the shoots needs to be piled up to shield the spear from sunlight as it grows. Given that under ideal conditions an asparagus spear can grow 6-8 inches in 24 hours, a close eye must be kept on the white spears poking up out of the ground. This practice began in France during the 1600s and was adopted in Germany and other parts of Europe. White asparagus is harvested before it gets to be too tall and it is therefore a little more fat and stocky than its slender, green cousin. It is also a little more pricey, due to the back-breaking labour involved before and during harvesting. White asparagus has a delicate and refined flavour compared to the assertive earthy bitterness of green asparagus.

The word asparagus comes from the ancient Greek word for stalk or shoot. The perennial is a member of the liliaceae family (lily), along with leeks, onion and garlic. It is native to the East Mediterranean and has been enjoyed since ancient Roman times.

King Louis XIV of France was the first to have the vegetable grown in hothouses so that it would be available year round. Today, asparagus is available year round, but it comes with a high price tag when not in season. Harvested from mid-February through June it is best during the month of April. If you plan on growing the plant it takes three seasons before it can be harvested but each plant will produce spears for harvest for about 10 years. The plant is pretty hardy, liking sandy, well-drained soil and will tolerate cold winters.

Once picked, the spears should be eaten within a few days. Wash the asparagus gently (the tips, though fragile, often contain grit and sand), wrap in a damp towel and store in the refrigerator.

In Gabriel Garcia Marquez’s novel, Love in the Time of Cholera, Dr. Juvenal Urbino de la Calle, one of the main characters, requests that asparagus be served daily. This, he insists, is not simply because he likes the vegetable but more because he enjoys the distinctive odour that it imparts to his urine. Indeed, this is one of the side effects of eating asparagus. The cause is linked to the breakdown of amino acids in asparagus upon digestion which produces a sulfur-containing derivative.

Asparagus has long been thought to have medicinal properties. The ancient Greeks used it to treat bee stings and cure toothaches. It is a natural diuretic and is helpful for bladder and kidney problems. It may also prevent small capillary blood vessels from rupturing. In China the roots of the plant are thought to lower blood pressure and it is also believed that they will foster amorous feelings in friends and relatives. Asparagus is thought to aid menstrual cramps, increase breast milk and promote fertility in India. The roots of the plant do contain compounds that may affect hormones so these beliefs may not be mere superstition. In the Western world asparagus has long been regarded as an aphrodisiac. Asparagus contains a high amount of vitamin A and is also a good source of vitamins B and C as well as iron.

There are many ways that asparagus can be prepared for eating, but whatever method of cooking is chosen, it should be fairly quick so that the sweet flavour and texture are retained. Before cooking, snap off the woody ends by bending each asparagus spear near its base. If you are cooking white asparagus it should be peeled (gently) before cooking as the outer skin is quite tough. Try and sort the spears so that their diameters are roughly the same size as larger spears will take longer to cook than thinner ones. Often asparagus is tied in a bundle and stood in an upright position to steam, either steaming the whole stalk or immersing the bundle in boiling water and leaving an inch or two of the tips above the water. This ensures that the tender tips will not overcook. Steaming takes from 5 to 8 minutes, stir-frying over medium high heat takes 3 to 5 minutes, broiling 4 inches under the broiler takes about 8 to 10 minutes and grilling over a medium low fire takes about 6 to 8 minutes. Asparagus can also be cooked in the microwave. Lay whole spears with their tips towards the centre on a microwave safe dish. Add about a quarter cup of water, cover tightly, and microwave on full power for 4 to 7 minutes. Stir or turn half way through cooking.

Asparagus is wonderful as finger food and it is often paired with mayonnaise as a dipping sauce. If you are up to making a hollandaise sauce it is excellent with grilled or broiled asparagus. My favourite way to eat it is grilled or broiled (which slightly caramelizes the outer skin) and topped with a simple herb vinaigrette which the following recipe highlights. According to Andrea Immer, author of Great Tastes Made Simple, the best wine pairing for asparagus (an awkward task) is an Austrian Gruner-Veltliner or an Italian Vernaccio, Verdicchio or Vermetino wine.

Broiled Asparagus with Balsamic Vinaigrette

Serves 6 to 8 as a side dish.

• 2 bunches thin asparagus spears, woody ends snapped off

•1 tablespoon olive oil

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Adjust oven rack to 4 inches below broiler and heat broiler. Gently toss the asparagus spears with oil, salt and pepper, then lay the spears in a single layer on a baking sheet. Broil, shaking pan halfway through to turn the spears, until asparagus is tender and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Cool for five minutes then arrange on serving dish.

For Vinaigrette:

• 1 teaspoon chopped shallots

• 2-3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

• 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

• 1 teaspoon chopped parsley

• 1teaspoon chopped chives

• 1 tablespoon chopped basil

• half teaspoon sugar

• salt and pepper to taste

• two thirds of a cup of peanut or canola oil

In a small saucepan gently sauté shallots in balsamic vinegar two minutes over medium heat. Remove from heat and allow to cool. Whisk together mustard, parsley, chives, basil, sugar, salt and pepper in a small bowl. Add shallot mixture to combine. Whisking constantly, slowly add oil until the mixture thickens and becomes emulsified. Pour vinaigrette over warm or cool asparagus and serve immediately. Store unused vinaigrette in the fridge – it is great on a regular salad too. This dish is made even better by the addition of slices of bocconcini.

This recipe is adapted from two sources, Cook’s Illustrated Magazine and Gusto! Magazine.