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Paddling Pacuare in Costa Rica

Rios Tropicales Eco Lodge is located in a remote private reserve

Right forward," Chino shouted, and we dug our paddles in. "Harder," he urged. "Left back," he insisted. Our raft shot through rapids, between big boulders, and submerged tumbles of stone. I bounced from the side into the center of the boat, but kept reaching in and pulling back in the Pacuare River of Costa Rica, until the waters calmed to an easy, quieter flow. We heard, "paddles up" and slapped our paddle-heads over the center of the boat like a collective High Five of wooden fingers.

Exertion was rewarded with exhilaration — our awe and adrenalin could now glide with the river through gorgeous scenery. Ribbons of waterfalls. Behemoth slabs of rocks telling time longer than any clock. Layers of lush greens reaching skyward. Tropical birds with showy colours and songs.

And always the river — raging, revealing, or reflecting. I learned to read the waves of oceans as a kid, but water crashing into boulders that are hidden or prominent, depending on the rains of the previous year, are like a Cyrillic or Chinese alphabet to me.

I was river illiterate — a relative beginner at reading the currents and velocities and at guessing the best path. From a shore view, all that churning white water looks magnificently, magnanimously strong, but from a rubber raft in wild waters, it morphs to a potential monster rushing toward me.

Seeing a potent section of thrashing water and unforgiving rock chewed flavour into the dried fear that sat inside me — some primal response to the more powerful forces of nature not yet befriended. But I had Julio sitting behind me, ready to grab my life jacket if it looked like I was going to bounce out, and Chino was calling the shots to navigate our passage.

I knew it was time to shift my focus. Don't look ahead at the looming dangers. Just look at where I was digging my paddle in. Think about my rhythms, the angle of the paddle, not hitting a rock or falling off the boat's side. Try to make each stroke count, dig in further, stay in cadence with fellow paddlers.

With that thrilling focus, before imagination could conjure worry, we were already through the adventurous slot and resting our paddles again — back in the wonder of it all — beauty in every direction, so far from our daily lives, and in the glorious elements with that soaring joy of being alive.

My previous experiences river rafting were in cold waters, but these Costa Rican waters are warm. Some scuba divers make big distinctions in dive destinations between cold water and warm. I am newer to river rafting and wonder if the same is true for this sport.

We were river rafting into the Rios Tropicales Eco Lodge in Costa Rica, a tropical retreat unreachable by road or air, but friendly to hikers and paddlers. Its inaccessibility to large human populations is deliberate, in order to protect the great accessibility to nature.

Many top spas around the world play audio tracks of running water and have artificial waterfalls above a pool or Jacuzzi. This lodge spreads above the vociferous, splendiferous Pacaura River for a loud organic sound track. If you walk down to the banks, there's a place to sit in a pool of sun-warmed waters with a real waterfall massaging your back.

Accommodations in this 2,000-acre, private reserve are on different levels of the slopes above — jungle to the sides, river below, and paths lined with tropical flowers between. At the main lodge, a footpath and bridge away, friendly and fun staff serve freshly made food along with the sounds, smells, and sights of nature.

Years ago, co-founder Fernando Esquivel had a vision of sharing nature, and he helped develop this oasis near the indigenous Cabecar Indian Reserve, with more than 64 kilometres of hiking trails available near waterfalls, streams, pools and even some screaming zip-lining.

A hydro-run generator makes comforts possible in a remote and exotic setting. Each suite has hot showers, electrical outlets, comfortable beds, and fresh flowers. On the way to the eating lodge, there also is a delightful platform of colorful hammocks for those who want to sleep closer to the stars, or who want to take a siesta with the river's lullaby.

The river-rafting and Rios Tropicales lodge was the start of an unforgettable trip with Austin-Lehman Adventures, an award-winning travel company that tailors trips in Costa Rica as one of its most popular destinations around the globe.

The water journey to leave Rio Tropicales was even more exciting than our arrival path, with more Class 3 and Class 4 rapids, and an enchanting stretch where rafters can jump out and float in gentle currents through a dramatic gorge.

Andy Austin, son of Dan and Carol Austin the founders of Austin-Lehman Adventures, was on my boat as lead photographer of the trip. At only 22, he has seen and photographed much of the world. I asked him if the rafting here was really as great as I thought it was.

He shared: "I've rafted all over the world, including rafting the Pacuare three times, and it is by far my favorite, as it is by far the most unique. I can never get tired of this river, and no trip down the river has been like the last."

Where is Chino now to call "Paddles up"?

For more information go to:austinlehman.com | riostropicales.com