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Table Scraps

Palm trees in Whistler

It was executive chef Darren Brown’s “coming out” party.

The former personal chef to movie mogul Merv Griffin is ready to completely makeover his new home at the Aubergine Grille at the Westin.

After overseeing culinary operations of 1.8 million sq. ft. event space, in room dining for 5,500 rooms and more than 20 restaurants at the Mandalay Bay Resort in Las Vegas, nothing daunts this man with a mission, not even a close friend’s advice not to take the executive chef position at the Grille.

If you can’t beat him, join them as the saying goes, and not only has Brown moved himself and his pregnant wife all the way from Sin City to our mountain resort town, but he has also recruited the same naysayer to work by his side as sous chef.

This guy can make a believer out of anyone – even myself.

Other than their legendary breakfast buffets, my limited experience at the Aubergine Grille in the past was rather bland. I never dined there outside of invites.

After reading Brown’s extensive kitchen credits – he sailed the seven seas as Merv Griffin’s personal chef, cooked for red carpet royalty such as Michael Douglas and Stefano Gabbana, and was recruited by famed Michelin Three-Star Chef Alain Ducasse –I was intrigued, not to mention hopeful such a superstar could turn it around, so I accepted an invitation to his “coming out” media dinner.

Exhausted from my Cornucopia marathon and the subsequent growing piles of work hiding any traces of my desktop, I checked into the Westin for dinner and dreams.

Within five minutes of checking into my room, I was bikini-clad and steaming away my to-do list in the resort’s outdoor hot tub. Heaven: cool rain falling above, cozy warm bubbles below.

I folded up in a fluffy hotel robe and returned to sit in front of my room’s fireplace. I threw caution to the wind and popped open a bottle of Veuve Clicquot Champagne for one and sat down to the petit fours chocolate platter Brown had sent up earlier. I’m sure this was meant for after dinner, but Brown should know better than to taunt a girl with beautifully crafted dark chocolate.

What I love about hotels and good food is there are no distractions and you are forced to relax regardless of whether you are willing or not.

Only an elevator ride away, I actually arrived on time for dinner –there was no message machine to check and still in a wonderful bubbles and fireside haze, Brown already had the advantage in his court.

My relaxed attention was all his, attention that started with a smile as I tasted a simple spoon of fresh crab and lemon. I would soon learn simple and quality ingredients are the a b cs of Brown’s kitchen. Sampling of the Grille’s cheese plate followed – B.C.’s Lunar Eclipse ash rind was firm and ornate with its black ribbon of ash while the Cowichan Blue was a strong and streamlined as an Olympic swimmer.

Brown prepared a multi-course dinner of items from his new menu – many items coming together only the day before. Brown stormed local producer stalls at the previous day’s Artisan Market at the hotel, adjusting the duck dish to include local figs stuffed with blue cheese as well as multi-coloured carrots prepared carpaccio style for a vegetarian guest at the table – Brown promises vegetarians are not a second-class citizen in his restaurant.

The peppered beef carpaccio and coconut and lemon grass soup were simple yet flavourful. Brown obviously couldn’t leave his palm tree ways of Las Vegas behind. This showgirl of soup was presented with the “star” ingredients, including heart of palm freshly FedEx-ed earlier that day, in an empty bowl and then the liquid was poured afterwards at the table. The soup was also garnished with an in-house-made sweet chili caviar and paired with another favourite, Conundrum.

Scallops, crab cakes and sable fish slowly followed, but it was the braised Nicola valley venison shank with a huckleberry-allspice demi glace that really had me sitting up out of my hot tub slouch – and no, it wasn’t the brush of 78 per cent dark chocolate on the plate that won me over.

The dish was worlds apart with the shank prepared Italian style, the Jerusalem artichoke prepared French style and the chocolate presented, well, Brown style – a decision made on the spur of a moment and his daring paid off with the bitter chocolate complimenting the huckleberry demi glace.

I couldn’t decide whether I liked the dish or the chef better. Like his food, he doesn’t beat around the bush or dress up his words with frivolity, only passion. The former Whistlerite is determined to win over a local following with tasting menus available on request and chefs visiting tables for a personable experience. His down-to-earth nature and sincerity will be a warm welcome to the open-room seating of the Grille.

I couldn’t help but like him even more when he told me he was the pastry chef behind the evening’s upside down apple pie – to die for with the apples caramelized on the top.

A bit like his dessert, innovative yet traditional, Brown is introducing another local consideration for a night out – and if you really want to make a getaway out of it, nothing is nicer than finding one of the most amazing soft beds only steps away. No snow boots or puffy jackets required.