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Travel Story

Instant Grotto-fication!

By Kyla Jardin

I’d never considered myself the spa type . At a hammam in Istanbul, I was scrubbed down with such vigor that when the ‘massage’ was over, I didn’t know whether to use my towel to dry off or to dress my wounds.

My second spa experience was almost as traumatic, as I splurged on a hydrotherapy treatment in which a jet of glacial water with diamond-like precision repeatedly traced figure-eights on my bare belly.

I had all but closed the door on spas when a certain e-mail from my editor came knocking: Brand new spa at Tigh-na-mara Resort, Spa and Conference Centre; B.C.’s biggest. Wanna check it out? It was time to face the Feng Shui once again. What was that saying, the third time’s the charm? I was counting on it.

Winding my way up towards Parksville along the eastern edge of Vancouver Island, a route that is ablaze with golden Scottish broom in early June, I felt a bit like Dorothy following the yellow brick road to meet the great and powerful Oz. Before I had even set foot inside the Grotto Spa, I was certain it was built to break the rules. The name itself rolled and echoed through my mind. Spa I could imagine; grotto kept me guessing. The anticipation had me half-hoping to see a scarecrow or tin man with his thumb out at the side of the road to share the adventure.

One last, deep breath and I was out of the car, the three-storey cabin-inspired spa before me. So this is what 16,000 square feet looks like , I marvelled. Imposing though the structure was, it managed to nestle in cozily amongst a host of serpentine arbutus and sweeping cedars. The facility is the most recent addition to the Tigh-na-mara Resort, a 21-acre property which famously marries land and sea. Rustic family-style and ‘forest studio’ cabins huddle in the shady embrace of coastal conifers, while beachfront accommodations overlook a swath of sand that spans 3 km to the northern boundary of Rathtrevor Provincial Park. I wandered the tranquil grounds, savouring the moss-moist, sea-salted air – and using up my film before I’d even gotten to the beach.

When I returned to my suite after sunset, a trail of soil, sand and fir needles traced my path from the door to the Jacuzzi tub. Reflecting on the day’s discoveries, I sank a little deeper and soaked a little longer, a satisfied explorer.

The next morning during a pre-spa breakfast with Tigh-na-mara owners and managers Jackie and Joe Hirsch, they shared the Grotto’s story. The Hirsches first discussed adding a spa to the resort in 1997, before the spa industry really began to gain momentum. A few years later, with the industry approaching runaway-train status, they decided to plunge into what had become an extremely competitive market. "From day one," said Jackie "we didn’t want to jump on the bandwagon – we wanted to drive it."

The grotto concept sprang from a consultation with local architect Zoltan Kitka. Both shelter and source by definition, a grotto is a dramatic example of harmony in nature – where the opposing elements of water and stone unite.

"It really evolved as the heart we wanted to orient the experience of the spa around," explained Jackie. "Restoring energy and achieving balance is the goal of spa treatments, so the grotto was a perfect fit."

Construction of the spa, complete with its cool, earthy namesake at its core, finished in early March. While the Hirsches joked about having not yet found time for more than a massage, I was already pondering the mineral infusion of the grotto’s thermal pool. Should I dip in and re-mineralize before or after my treatment? I had to be practical – this was research. All right then. Both.

Once inside the spa, the siren burble of falling water lured me towards a genuine ‘we’re not in Kansas anymore’ sight. Around the corner, I met a single sheet of etched glass shimmering with spring water, framed by rough boulders – a water-wall which preludes the crystalline effect of a similar 2-storey wall illuminating the sculpted rock interior of the grotto. Moments later, Jackie found me there, transfixed.

"By the way," she began, "what would you like done today?"

"Oh nothing special," I shrugged.

With a quick wink, she returned my shrug playfully. "I’m sorry, we don’t do that here."

With options ranging from spirulina body wraps, to warm stone massage, to the "3,000 year old ritual of rejuvenation" aromatherapy kur, I chose the Grotto Spa Signature Experience – a truly toe-to-head treatment. Beginning with a Swedish foot soak, scrub and massage, and ending with a therapeutic facial, my body care specialist, Amanda, employed her nimble fingers to soothe muscles I didn’t realize were aching and smooth wrinkles that were just beginning to show.

"This is where body work meets soul work," she told me.

The variety of textures and temperatures made my skin tingle to life. At the same time, I was so relaxed, I could have melted right into my robe.

The water wall rippled faintly, reflecting arpeggios of light on the stone hearth of the ladies lounge as I brought a steaming cup of chamomile to my serene smile. Third time’s the charm is right, I thought. The mystery of the Grotto revealed, I took another sip and closed my eyes. This Dorothy wasn’t ready to click her heels together just yet.