The new red is white
If, like me, you believe that the new red wine is white, sauvignon blanc is positioned just right to take advantage of what should be a natural pendulum swing that’s already leading opinion makers and wine sippers away from red and back to white wine this spring.
It’s more than just being white that makes sauvignon blanc so attractive. When it’s grown on a cool site and handled in a specific manner sauvignon delivers big flavour in the glass. And it’s the strong flavour elements that should attract red wine drinkers (already used to big flavours) back to the white wine camp and sauvignon in particular.
Globally, sauvignon blanc has undergone changes centred upon oak – as in using less of it – and in a similar vein using less cork due to more screwcaps and synthetic closures. All of the above is designed to deliver more fruit to your glass.
In fact most sauvignon falls into three categories; the pure varietal or un-wooded style with crisp acidity; a lightly oaked version combining some portion of barrel fermented juice (in mostly neutral French oak) with tank fermented juice that makes a slightly richer, more complex wine; and the fading fast old-school, full-blown barrel fermented, toasted oak and lees style that has more to do with chardonnay than sauvignon.
In the same manner that the riesling renaissance had to be jump-started outside of its German home base, interest in sauvignon blanc is being rekindled outside of its French home sites of Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé by the likes of Marlborough, New Zealand, Casablanca, Chile, coastal South Africa and California.
It’s not to say Sancerre, Pouilly Fumé or Touraine have gone unnoticed because repeatedly the "best" sauvignons tasted from outside of France are described as being Sancerre or Pouilly Fume-like. The problem is many young consumers are unaware that Sancerre, Pouilly Fumé and Touraine are all made from sauvignon blanc.
Let’s take a closer look at what the global interlopers are doing in detail.
The Napa Valley style, when done right, more closely resembles the Loire style with its smoky, mineral, pear and green apple flavours, leaner structure and higher acidity.
In Chile everyone is heading for the coast, and while Casablanca has a beachhead on sauvignon blanc three hours to the north, in the fog-shrouded Limari Valley, sauvignon blanc is coming alive. The best Chilean sauvignons are round, fresh and fruity, although not necessarily as complex as their global brethren.
Not to be dismissed this time around is Australia, in particular the revolution in the Adelaide Hills. Super fresh examples from Shaw and Smith, Nepenthe, David O’Leary, Longview, Penfolds, Wolf Blass and many more are redefining this varietal in Oz. All are in screwcap, a closure seemingly perfected for the delicate fresh fruit character of sauvignon.
The story of South Africa’s rebirth on the international market is closely tied to sauvignon blanc and we hope to see more and more in B.C. in the coming months. Last but not least there are glimmers of hope closer to home in cool-climate Canada. In British Columbia Black Hills, Sumac Ridge and Mission Hill are leading the pack.
Here’s a select list of sauvignon blanc from just under $10 to $30 that you may want to investigate as the weather warms up. Think oysters, mussels, cool light seafood dishes, spicy Thai, Indian and Asian cuisine, or warm seafood salads. Enjoy.
Obikwa Sauvignon Blanc 2004,
Western Cape, South AfricaA clean, simple varietal style that is perfect for lighter seafood. Good value. $9.49
Lindemans Bin 95 Sauvignon Blanc 2004
, South Eastern AustraliaA fine example of what a screwcap can do for an ordinary white. Love the (fresh) smoky, floral, mineral, gooseberry, citrus aromas and fruit. $11.49
Les Fumées Blanches Sauvignon 2003,
Languedoc, FranceDry, elegant and fresh wine with green apple/grapefruit, mineral and passion fruit flavours. Great value and comes with a screwcap. $11.33
Errazuriz Sauvignon Blanc 2003,
Valle del Curicó, ChileLemon, green apple, green kiwi flavours with a strong mineral, light bell pepper finish. Mussels and clams are the call here. $13.40
Casas del Bosque Sauvignon Blanc 2004,
Valle de Casablanca, ChileSmoky, canned jalapeno, gooseberry, grassy, grapefruit aromas with a flinty, green apple granny smith flavours. Aggressive style. $17.95 (Specialty)
Matua Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2004,
Hawkes Bay, New ZealandCrisp but delicate with mineral, grapefruit, lime rind, melon and gooseberry flavours. Fine textures and easy open screwcap. $18.99
Sacred Hill Whitecliff Sauvignon Blanc 2004,
New ZealandSmoky, flinty, guava, green melon floral notes mark this elegant sauvignon with a touch of jalapeño on the finish. $19.95
Jackson Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2004,
Marlborough, New ZealandClassic fresh grapefruit, with mineral, smoky asparagus and grassy, gooseberry flavours. Crisp with finesse. $19.95
Kenwood Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2003,
Sonoma County, CaliforniaRound, crisp, slightly oily texture with a touch of sweetness with mineral, gooseberry, grapefruit juice, buttery mineral flavours. $19.99
Kendall-Jackson Sauvignon Blanc Vintner’s Reserve 2003,
CaliforniaFresh inviting nose of melon and ripe tropical fruit with ripe melon and fig fruit flavours. Simple, straight up sauvignon. $19.99
Benziger Fumé Blanc 2003,
North Coast, CaliforniaLovely bright citrus notes mix with melon, grapefruit, and smoky slate flavours. Deft use of oak and a long finish. $24.95
Rodney Strong Sauvignon Blanc Charlotte’s Home 2003,
Sonoma County, CaliforniaFloral, mineral honey and smoke mixes with ripe kiwi, grapefruit, green melon and passion fruit flavours. Finesse and value. $24.99
Ferrari-Carano Fume Blanc 2003,
Sonoma County, CaliforniaVery smoky (fumée), mineral, lees flavours with honey, vanilla, dried fig and grassy, gooseberry notes. Intense sauvignon. $26.99
Markham Sauvignon Blanc 2003,
Napa Valley, CaliforniaStylish nose of kiwi and melon with a streak of honey mixed with dry, grassy grapefruit rind and honey flavours. Benchmark Napa. $27.95
Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc 2002,
Napa Valley, CaliforniaLook for smoky mineral flavours streaked with creamy grapefruit, pineapple and green apple skin. Great oyster wine. $29.99
Anthony Gismondi is a globetrotting wine writer who makes his home in West Vancouver, B.C. For more of his thoughts on wine log onto www.gismondionwine.com
