Almost all zinfandel, and
certainly the best of it, is grown only in California. Now, thanks to recent
developments in DNA science, we know enough about its origins to dispense with
the speculation about where this modern-day California icon was born.
Records suggest zinfandel
was widely planted throughout California by the early 1850s, although its
heritage would remain a source of speculation and mystery for nearly 150 years
to follow. By the late 1960s plant geneticists were analyzing the vineyards of
the world using DNA mapping techniques. Early results pointed them toward
southern Italy, where they discovered that zinfandel, and the Italian red
variety, primitivo, are different clones of the same variety.
The search for the original
primitivo/zinfandel vine then jumped across the Adriatic Sea to Croatia where
it was thought primitivo originated under the “plavac mali” moniker. Tests came
back negative, although it seems the plavac mali grape turned out to be a
relative. This discovery narrowed the search to the central Dalmatian coastal
strip and its offshore islands.
Eventually a matching DNA
fingerprint was found among vine samples — the identical grape was identified
as the crljenak kaštelanski. Scientists now agree that California’s
zinfandel is genetically equivalent to the Croatian grape crljenak
kaštelanski, and to the primitivo variety traditionally grown at Puglia,
the “heel” of Italy.
In spite of its European
lineage, zinfandel remains California’s signature grape much the same as
pinotage is to South Africa, malbec is to Argentina,or sauvignon blanc is to
New Zealand.
How the vines travelled to
California and were transformed into modern-day zinfandel remains a mystery but
the results are not. Wine drinkers have a passion and an affinity for zinfandel
they seldom display for other grapes. Zinfandel may have had its feathers
ruffled in the rush to shiraz, pinot noir and lately malbec but the grape with
the big fruity, friendly demeanour remains the original California cult
classic.
Proof of zinfandel’s staying
power occurs every year in late January when hundreds of aficionados gather in
San Francisco at what amounts to be a state-of-the-union tasting at the Fort
Mason Center, put on by members of the Zinfandel Advocates & Producers
(ZAP). This year marks the 17th anniversary of the annual event that features
275 producers and 550 wines.
Zinfandel has been aptly
described as a comfortable old pair of shoes or akin to sitting in your
favourite armchair. For me, zinfandel is all about soft texture, low tannin and
an easy-sipping style with the proviso that high alcohol can be an issue from
sample to sample.
What attracts consumers to
zin are its bright aromatic berry fruit flavours, reminiscent of cinnamon,
black cherries, plums and spicy clove, all wrapped up into a warm, smooth
jacket.
Even better, zinfandel can
be enjoyed with a variety of foods. Chicken, duck, sausage and any combination
with pasta come quickly to mind along with a variety of hard and soft cheeses.
Here’s a quick look at some
of the better examples sold in government stores:
Tasty Original Zins
Z 52 Agnes Vineyard Old Vine
Lodi Zinfandel, Lodi $35
Agnes Vineyard is dry-farmed
and head-pruned and the fruit is concentrated with peppery, earthy black fruit
laced with licorice and alcohol. Big warm and bold, it’s well suited to grilled
sausages or barbecued back ribs.
Tamás Estates Zinfandel,
Livermore, San Francisco Bay $18
Look for a soft, smooth sweet spicy zinfandel here made with Livermore Valley zinfandel and 10 per cent
barbera. It’s aged for about eight months in French and American oak to soften
the edges of its spicy jammy, brambleberry fruit flavours.
Cline Zinfandel, California
$20
Cline mixes Lodi and Contra
Costa County fruit in their introductory zinfandel. It’s aged in toasted French
oak barrels. The Cline style is showy with sweet, glossy peppery fruit and
plenty of vanilla and cherry flavours. Very drinkable now but will keep for
three to five years. Farmed with zero pesticides.
Artezin Zinfandel, Mendocino
—Amador —Sonoma Counties, North Coast $25
This is big, warm, spicy,
glossy, zinfandel crammed with briary, black fruit, and with just enough
acidity to keep it fresh and just enough vanilla and berries to keep it
attractive. You can serve this crowd pleaser with most grilled meats and
roasted poultry.
Rodney Strong Zinfandel
Knotty Vines, Sonoma County $23
Floral, cherry jam, spicy,
peppery, bramble, kirsch, tobacco leaf, gamey nose and warm. Dry, rich, round,
and somewhat tannic. Peppery, cranberry, spicy, liquorice, bramble, vanilla and
caramel flavours. Tart, dry, hot finish with some tannin to shed. Needs rare
lamb.
Ravenswood Sonoma County Old
Vine Zinfandel 2004, Sonoma Valley, Sonoma County $30
Dried spices, peppery,
cooked black cherry, rooty, licorice, cola, meaty, cedar bark aromas. Tart,
round, entry with some cedar-y tannins. Expect peppery, resin, cedar bark and
cherry cola flavours. Best with barbecued meats.
Renwood Zinfandel Old Vines
2003, Amador County, Sierra Foothills $33
This is very spicy, peppery
zin with smoky, licorice, resin, bramble berry, vanilla, cherry flavours. The
finish is warm (alcoholic) and a bit chewy. Best another two to four years in
bottle or with grilled meats.
Ridge Three Valleys, Sonoma
County $35
A blend of Dry Creek, Sonoma
and Alexander valleys fruit; look for bright floral, strawberry jam and spicy
aromas. The entry is supple with peppery, spicy, black cherry jam, strawberry,
clove, roasted earth and briar flavours. A touch alcoholic but with fine fruit,
balance and finesse. Delicious zin.
Inniskillin Okanagan
Discovery Series Zinfandel, Okanagan Valley, BC $30
Obviously not from
California but this dry, full-bodied zin from the Okanagan is worth checking
out. Look for a peppery, resiny, meaty, cooked black cherry, licorice flavours
with coffee and vanilla. A touch overripe but that only fits in with the
California style.
Anthony Gismondi is a globetrotting
wine writer who makes his home in West Vancouver, British Columbia. For more of
his thoughts on wine log onto www.gismondionwine.com