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Catchin’ some ZZZs with zin: The California icon with staying power

Almost all zinfandel, and certainly the best of it, is grown only in California. Now, thanks to recent developments in DNA science, we know enough about its origins to dispense with the speculation about where this modern-day California icon was born.

Records suggest zinfandel was widely planted throughout California by the early 1850s, although its heritage would remain a source of speculation and mystery for nearly 150 years to follow. By the late 1960s plant geneticists were analyzing the vineyards of the world using DNA mapping techniques. Early results pointed them toward southern Italy, where they discovered that zinfandel, and the Italian red variety, primitivo, are different clones of the same variety.

The search for the original primitivo/zinfandel vine then jumped across the Adriatic Sea to Croatia where it was thought primitivo originated under the “plavac mali” moniker. Tests came back negative, although it seems the plavac mali grape turned out to be a relative. This discovery narrowed the search to the central Dalmatian coastal strip and its offshore islands.

Eventually a matching DNA fingerprint was found among vine samples — the identical grape was identified as the crljenak kaštelanski. Scientists now agree that California’s zinfandel is genetically equivalent to the Croatian grape crljenak kaštelanski, and to the primitivo variety traditionally grown at Puglia, the “heel” of Italy.

In spite of its European lineage, zinfandel remains California’s signature grape much the same as pinotage is to South Africa, malbec is to Argentina,or sauvignon blanc is to New Zealand.

How the vines travelled to California and were transformed into modern-day zinfandel remains a mystery but the results are not. Wine drinkers have a passion and an affinity for zinfandel they seldom display for other grapes. Zinfandel may have had its feathers ruffled in the rush to shiraz, pinot noir and lately malbec but the grape with the big fruity, friendly demeanour remains the original California cult classic.

Proof of zinfandel’s staying power occurs every year in late January when hundreds of aficionados gather in San Francisco at what amounts to be a state-of-the-union tasting at the Fort Mason Center, put on by members of the Zinfandel Advocates & Producers (ZAP). This year marks the 17th anniversary of the annual event that features 275 producers and 550 wines.

Zinfandel has been aptly described as a comfortable old pair of shoes or akin to sitting in your favourite armchair. For me, zinfandel is all about soft texture, low tannin and an easy-sipping style with the proviso that high alcohol can be an issue from sample to sample.

What attracts consumers to zin are its bright aromatic berry fruit flavours, reminiscent of cinnamon, black cherries, plums and spicy clove, all wrapped up into a warm, smooth jacket.

Even better, zinfandel can be enjoyed with a variety of foods. Chicken, duck, sausage and any combination with pasta come quickly to mind along with a variety of hard and soft cheeses.

Here’s a quick look at some of the better examples sold in government stores:

 

Tasty Original Zins

Z 52 Agnes Vineyard Old Vine Lodi Zinfandel, Lodi $35

Agnes Vineyard is dry-farmed and head-pruned and the fruit is concentrated with peppery, earthy black fruit laced with licorice and alcohol. Big warm and bold, it’s well suited to grilled sausages or barbecued back ribs.

 

Tamás Estates Zinfandel, Livermore, San Francisco Bay $18

Look for a soft, smooth sweet spicy zinfandel here made with Livermore Valley zinfandel and 10 per cent barbera. It’s aged for about eight months in French and American oak to soften the edges of its spicy jammy, brambleberry fruit flavours.

 

Cline Zinfandel, California $20

Cline mixes Lodi and Contra Costa County fruit in their introductory zinfandel. It’s aged in toasted French oak barrels. The Cline style is showy with sweet, glossy peppery fruit and plenty of vanilla and cherry flavours. Very drinkable now but will keep for three to five years. Farmed with zero pesticides.

 

Artezin Zinfandel, Mendocino —Amador —Sonoma Counties, North Coast $25

This is big, warm, spicy, glossy, zinfandel crammed with briary, black fruit, and with just enough acidity to keep it fresh and just enough vanilla and berries to keep it attractive. You can serve this crowd pleaser with most grilled meats and roasted poultry.

 

Rodney Strong Zinfandel Knotty Vines, Sonoma County $23

Floral, cherry jam, spicy, peppery, bramble, kirsch, tobacco leaf, gamey nose and warm. Dry, rich, round, and somewhat tannic. Peppery, cranberry, spicy, liquorice, bramble, vanilla and caramel flavours. Tart, dry, hot finish with some tannin to shed. Needs rare lamb.

 

Ravenswood Sonoma County Old Vine Zinfandel 2004, Sonoma Valley, Sonoma County $30

Dried spices, peppery, cooked black cherry, rooty, licorice, cola, meaty, cedar bark aromas. Tart, round, entry with some cedar-y tannins. Expect peppery, resin, cedar bark and cherry cola flavours. Best with barbecued meats.

 

Renwood Zinfandel Old Vines 2003, Amador County, Sierra Foothills $33

This is very spicy, peppery zin with smoky, licorice, resin, bramble berry, vanilla, cherry flavours. The finish is warm (alcoholic) and a bit chewy. Best another two to four years in bottle or with grilled meats.

 

Ridge Three Valleys, Sonoma County $35

A blend of Dry Creek, Sonoma and Alexander valleys fruit; look for bright floral, strawberry jam and spicy aromas. The entry is supple with peppery, spicy, black cherry jam, strawberry, clove, roasted earth and briar flavours. A touch alcoholic but with fine fruit, balance and finesse. Delicious zin.

 

Inniskillin Okanagan Discovery Series Zinfandel, Okanagan Valley, BC $30

Obviously not from California but this dry, full-bodied zin from the Okanagan is worth checking out. Look for a peppery, resiny, meaty, cooked black cherry, licorice flavours with coffee and vanilla. A touch overripe but that only fits in with the California style.

 

Anthony Gismondi is a globetrotting wine writer who makes his home in West Vancouver, British Columbia. For more of his thoughts on wine log onto www.gismondionwine.com