It wasn't all that long ago that merlot was the whipping boy of the wine industry. Overproduced and under-flavoured, it was infamously damned in the movie Sideways during a pre-dinner scene where would-be novelist and pinot noir snob, Miles, informs his pal, Jack, that "if anyone orders merlot, I'm leaving. I am NOT drinking any f------ merlot!"
In the months that followed, merlot's image took a battering, as did its sales. Fortunately for merlot producers, what goes around comes around, and just when it seemed the grape was doomed, its modern day competitor, shiraz, began losing its lustre.
Eerily reminiscent of merlot's demise, shiraz has found its reputation marred by a sea of mediocrity, especially at the fighting varietal level where soupy, cedar-y, sour reds are driving consumers to consider not drinking any f------ shiraz.
It's music to the ears of the merlot producers hoping to get back in the game. In fact, while shiraz and pinot noir were competing for shelf space, some fairly intense self-examination by growers, producers and retailers has resulted in a merlot renaissance among consumers who crave rich, dark fruit-flavoured wine with supple textures and glossy fruit.
There is little doubt some of the finest merlot still comes from Bordeaux's Right Bank in St. Emilion and Pomerol, although current prices make most Right Bank labels little more than trophy wines that are literally bought and sold at auction with very little drinking in between.
Modern-day merlot, at least the stuff that gets drunk, is more likely to come out of Sonoma, Chile and Tuscany or, as we are witnessing repeatedly of late, from Washington and British Columbia, with the latter two regions showing a great deal of promise.
There is something about Pacific Northwest merlot that places it well above the norm. The fruit is rich and, for the most part, ripe. The tannins are mostly soft or at least fine-grained at the top end and the flavours come with a supercharged, spicy savoury thread and just enough acidity to keep it lively on the palate.
Of course, talk is cheap. It's what is in the glass that counts.
In British Columbia the single best practitioner of merlot has to be CedarCreek. The CedarCreek Classic Series 2006 Merlot ($20) proves we can do something special in B.C. Big and open with higher toned, spicy, fruit pudding with vanilla and black cherries, it is Bordeaux with fruit. This is delicious, well made, affordable merlot.
Equally appealing with a grilled bird is the Mission Hill Merlot Reserve 2006 ($25) , with its dry, round, supple styling and coffee, peppery, herbal, vanilla flavours. It's lean but with finesse. Similar in style is the Road 13 Merlot 2006 ($24) , with its smoky, vanilla, cherry, cedar aromas and coffee, cedar, tobacco, peppery, cherry, mineral, stony flavours.
All of these are terrific "food" wines that make a meal more interesting.
If you believe in the idea that some grapes grow better in some places than others, then Washington merlot such as L'Ecole No. 41 Merlot 2005 ($47) should be on your radar. This Walla Walla red is consistently among the finest merlots made in the state. Look for ripe peppery fruit flecked with orange and chocolate. Dense, round and full-bodied with soft tannins, it is a treat to sip. Again, Bordeaux-esque with fruit.
Speaking of Bordeaux, you can reorient your palate quickly with a glass of Chateau Mayne-Vieil 2003 ($28) from the Fronsac region. The blend is 90 per cent merlot with 10 per cent Cabernet Franc. Typically reserved, its cedar-y dark fruit flavours and small-grained tannins call for food or, perhaps, a post-dinner dalliance with cheese.
Still in Europe, I was recently impressed with Falesco Umbria Merlot 2006 ($25) . This mid-Italy version has a meaty, peppery, sausage nose while the palate is awash in dark plum, peppery, tobacco fruit and vanilla flavours. There is fine intensity and concentration but it will easily pair with any number of grilled beef dishes.
The Tommasi Merlot Le Prunée 2006 ($22) from the Veneto is another light, elegant, balanced merlot with an earthy, barnyard, plum fruit nose. The textures on the mid-palate are soft with plummy, spicy cherry fruit and liquorice notes. This is classic Italian styling that suggests dinner dishes like osso buco, sausages or meat-sauced pasta. Ready to drink.
Much of the merlot coming out of California has been less than compelling but you can't go wrong in select parts of Sonoma and Napa Valley. A real bargain is the latest Kendall-Jackson Merlot Vintner's Reserve 2006 ($25) . This is a delicious tri-county blend of mountain, hillside and bench fruit from Sonoma, Napa and Mendocino counties. Structurally correct and full of smoky, black fruit and rounded fine-grained tannins, it slides down effortlessly. Private wine shops only.
Another Golden State winner is the Benziger Merlot 2004 ($34) from Sonoma County. The style is dry and fresh with peppery, plum, black olive and tobacco flavoured fruit with a cardamom and coffee finish.
Moving up the price ladder, a new classic is the Highland Estate Taylor Peak Merlot 2006 ($65) . Taylor Peak is 100 per cent Bennett Valley grown fruit (inside Sonoma Valley) that spends 17 months in French oak of which 37 per cent is new. Look for cool blueberry black fruit and blueberries with bits of tobacco, spice, compost chocolate and licorice. Impressive styling that focuses on mountain fruit gives it power but with Bordeaux Right Bank-like finesse. You can easily drink or hold this merlot, for a decade. It is only available in private wine shops and restaurants.
Looking back on the last 40 years of merlot, it's clear that popularity works in strange ways. Having survived its times at the top of the wine game and at the bottom, merlot is once again working its way back into the lexicon and mouths of wine drinkers. Who knows, maybe somewhere in Santa Barbara County, Miles, Jack, Maya and Stefanie are ordering a merlot as you read this.
Anthony Gismondi is a globetrotting wine writer who makes his home in West Vancouver, British Columbia. For more of his thoughts on wine log onto www.gismondionwine.com
