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The long road home

Devotees, including a Whistler woman, come from around the world to pay their respects to the Dalai Lama, while Tibetans wait to return to their land "I?d rather live in Tibet, than be a refugee." ? Tenpa Gyaltsen.

Devotees, including a Whistler woman, come from around the world to pay their respects to the Dalai Lama, while Tibetans wait to return to their land

"I?d rather live in Tibet, than be a refugee." ? Tenpa Gyaltsen.

By Janet Love Morrison

Tenpa Gyaltsen fled over the Himalayas when he was 12 years old. He was the youngest in a group of 24. It was October 1992, and it was one of the most harrowing experiences in his young life.

Tenpa was raised in Eastern Tibet. Chinese law allows only a few Tibetans to enter Chinese government colleges, and universities, hence Tenpa?s parents sent him to live with his uncle in southern India.

In 1949 the People?s Republic of China invaded and occupied Tibet ? in violation of international law. This resulted in the flight of His Holiness the Honourable 14th Dalai Lama, and 87,000 refugees to Nepal, Bhutan, Sikkim, and India. The Chinese assaulted the Tibetan traditional way of life. Public executions and mass starvation resulted in 1.2 million deaths. Since then the world has embraced the peaceful Tibetans, while imperialist Beijing continues to ignore human rights.

Tenpa?s parents attempted to obtain a legal passport for their son, however, the Chinese Government strictly opposed education of Tibetan Chinese Nationals in India. Therefore, to go to school, Tenpa was going to have to walk over the highest mountains on Earth to Nepal, and eventually to India. His parents were extremely worried. It was wintertime ? the best time to avoid the Chinese police, but of course also the time of harshest travel conditions.

Tenpa, and his older brother, travelled five days in the back of a truck to Lhasa. It was there where they said good-bye.

"I cried when I said good-bye to my mother, and again when I was separated from my brother. He was very emotional, he pleaded with each member of our group to help me over the mountains," Tempa recalls.

It took them 18 days to walk from Lhasa to Kathmandu.

"We crossed rivers, and climbed steep rocky mountains. We were constantly worried about being caught by the Chinese police. Many Tibetans had been caught, they were beaten, all their belongings and money were confiscated. Many were imprisoned, or forced into labour camps."

They safely reached the border, but had to wait until midnight before attempting to climb the last rock face and cross the bridge that lay between them and freedom. The bridge was located in a strategic pass guarded by the Nepal Border Security. It was the only way into Nepal.

"There was extreme relief once we crossed the bridge," Tempa says.

Crossing the Sino-Nepali border wasn?t the end of their hardship. From that point on they had to disguise themselves as Nepalese, and hide from the police. If caught, the Nepalese police would have sent them directly back to Tibet.

As soon as the exhausted group reached Kathmandu they went to the Tibet Reception House, where they were received and cared for by fellow Tibetans. Arrangements were quickly made to move the Tibetans out of Nepal, and shortly thereafter Tenpa travelled to southern India, to Sera Jae Monastery, on the Tibetan Settlement in Bylakuppe, Karnataka State, to begin his new life.

I met Tenpa last year at Kodaikanal International School in Tamil Nadu, Southern India. Tenpa personifies Tibetans: he is quiet in nature, compassionate, and accepts his challenges with grace.

I have travelled to Tibet, and I have an incredible amount of admiration, and respect for the Tibetan people. It was through my interest in Tibet that I gravitated to Tenpa, and he graciously answered my many questions about his culture and his life. Throughout the school year we shared many conversations and I learned a great deal from Tenpa.

Tenpa graduated from Kodaikanal International School this past May. His uncle, Geshe Lotzum, who fled Tibet at the same time as His Holiness, in 1959, came to his nephew?s graduation ceremony and I felt honoured to meet him. Geshi training takes 15 years of intense studies and is the highest level a Tibetan monk can attain.

With Tenpa translating, Geshe Lotzum invited me to visit Sera Jae Monastery. His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama was visiting the monastery, and Geshe Lotzum offered his home to me if I could make the trip in July.

I couldn?t believe my ears. I was dumbfounded. I didn?t know what to say. Then I heard myself answer, "Really?"

The following day I approached my vice-principal, Nancy Garrison, and asked for the time off. The timing wasn?t going to be the greatest ? four days into a new semester, and things can be pretty crazy at the beginning of the school year. But I thought to myself, "All she can say is ?No?." Nancy was receptive, and I left with her giving me directions on how to travel to Bylakuppe.

Tibetans? temporary home

Bylakuppe is home to 20,000 Tibetans. In 1962 His Holiness asked Jawaharalal Nehru, India?s first prime minister, to provide temporary settlement and education for the thousands of Tibetan refugees pouring over the border. The government of Karnataka State agreed to accept 500 families, and a 99-year lease was signed.

Bylakuppe was chosen to be home of the Sera Jae Monastic University, one of the three largest Tibetan Monasteries in exile. Today there are over 5,000 monks studying at Sera Jae. Bylakuppe itself is Tibet re-created in Southern India. The Tibetan people have built homes for the elderly, hospitals, administration buildings, shops, monasteries, and schools ? an entire infrastructure is in place.

The night before I left Kodaikanal I was anxious as I tried to think of a gift to take to Geshe Lotzum and Tenpa. I stood in my kitchen, trying to think of something Canadian when I suddenly remembered the maple syrup Colin Pitt-Taylor had given me when I was in Whistler this past June. I had told Colin that maple syrup is a hot commodity amongst Westerners who teach at Kodai, and he generously gave me two tins to bring back with me. I took one to Bylakuppe; it was the perfect gift.

I arrived at Bylakuppe late in the afternoon. Innumerable smiling faces welcomed me as my taxi sped through the settlement. Tibetans of all ages covered the road. Everyone was participating in preparing for the arrival of His Holiness. They were diligently sweeping, putting up archways with welcome banners, and stringing flags from pole to pole. The preparation appeared effortless for the devotees; their deity of Universal Compassion would soon be arriving.

Tenpa?s directions were precise, and I found House #114 without problem. He met me at the gate ? it was wonderful to see him again ? and I still couldn?t believe that I was there.

I walked into the peaceful courtyard, several monks gathered around, and I immediately felt at home. Smiling, I spoke the only Tibetan I know: "Tashi Delek" (hello). They smiled and laughed in response to my humble greeting.

Tenpa showed me to my simple, comfortable room. Two monks had given up their space to make room for me. An orange carpet covered the cement floor, the beds were low and they were covered with traditional Tibetan carpets. A bookcase was filled with Tibetan scriptures, photos of His Holiness, a plastic pink and white alarm clock and incense. Rose-coloured curtains hung in the windows, and there were hooks on the wall behind the door. This was going to be my home for five days. I already knew it would be difficult to leave, but I embraced the moment and felt blessed to be there.

Foreigners are strictly forbidden to stay in the monastery, and security is intensified when His Holiness is visiting. In fact, 500 state policemen were transferred to Bylakuppe for the occasion, but they weren?t even told why they were sent there.

However, Geshe Lotzum and Tenpa organized my security clearance. While hundreds of devotees from as far away as Switzerland were denied entry, I was issued a green "Devotee" card. I didn?t feel comfortable attaining a pass when so many were denied, but Geshe Lotzum assured me that I should just accept it with grace. My identity card granted me entry into the main prayer hall where His Holiness would be lecturing for the following 10 days. His Holiness? visit to Sera Jae was focused on lecturing the monks in advanced Buddhist studies.

On the first morning of lectures, Tenpa took me through security and then sent me off with a small Tibetan meditation carpet. At the bottom of the steps I slipped out of my sandals and silently treaded up to the great doors. I stepped into the hall, to the sound of 5,000 monks chanting. I stood there feeling lost. I didn?t know which way to go. Thankfully several maroon-robed monks directed me to the roped off area marked, "Foreigners." I found a spot, put my carpet down, and sat in awe.

There were maybe 40 foreigners, most of them monks or philosophers, well versed in Buddhist studies. Several had transistor radios, and were able to tune into the translation. I realized this wasn?t new to them.

Suddenly there was a shift and everyone stood up; the energy was palpable. His Holiness had arrived. As soon as I saw him I couldn?t stop smiling. He sat down. We sat down. The chanting continued ? and the energy rocked my soul.

I sat about 10 metres from His Holiness. I was beaming. Then our eyes met, and I couldn?t resist winking at him. The next thing I knew we were sharing a laugh. I just couldn?t contain myself ? it was magic.

Later, back at House #114, I asked Geshe Lotzum what he thought of Westerners travelling to Tibet where their tourism dollars support the ruling regime.

He answered: "The money does not matter. What matters is that the people in Tibet know the outside world is aware. Westerners talk to the people, they learn about our culture, and our situation. It is good that Westerners travel to Tibet."

Then I asked him what would happen to Bylakuppe when Tibetans return to their homeland. Without any hesitation, he put his hand on his heart, and answered: "We?ll leave it all behind."

Whistler writer Janet Love Morrison is teaching at Kodaikanal International School in Tamil Nadu, Southern India