When we were kids, we used to play a little game called what would you take to a desert island? You know, you could take only one thing from each category: your favourite book, your favourite friend, your favourite music, your favourite outfit (shorts).
When it came to food, my choice was always a toss-up between fresh cherries, preferably from my Uncle Hec’s orchard in the Okanagan, and watermelon.
But when I saw a grainy documentary — I think they were called adventure films back then — about the nomadic Maasai of Africa and how they’d cut a watermelon in half around its girth, stir up the pink contents with a stick and feed it to their cattle, I was convinced watermelon was the thing to take. After all, if the Maasai’s cattle could live off it, so could I.
Watermelons have been around for 5,000 years, at least in Africa. But styles have come and gone over time. So-called seedless watermelons, which actually contain small, undeveloped seeds, were first bred in Japan in the 1930s. The big 25-pounders with black seeds, which could reach 60 pounds, as well as the small round-ball “icebox” ones are a thing of the past, even at North Arm Farm, which used to grow the little guys. (Alas, with climate change, summers are just too unpredictable these days, and certainly this one hasn’t delivered a summer long or hot enough to raise them in Pemberton.)
My latest discovery, however, more than makes up for all past glorious incarnations: organic watermelon.
I know, it hurts a bit when you see those big green organic babies lying there at 98 cents a pound, while they’re regular cousins, at 39 cents a pound, are piled high. But trust me: take the plunge. They might seem a bit on the pricey side, but frankly, for a buck a pound you won’t find this much legal joy at any price anywhere. Besides, it seems like highway robbery and you’re the robber to pay only five or six bucks for a big ol’ regular watermelon — what does the farmer get out of that, a nickel?
Or maybe you shouldn’t trust me, because try one and you’ll be hooked. We’re gorging our way through our fourth organic watermelon this summer and, believe me, even for 13 or 14 bucks, these babies sing sweetly. Or you will be, as you swear you could live on them all summer long. Like the Sirens’ song from a Greek shore, they lure you in with one bite.
And there the metaphor sticks, because here’s the latest, compliments of the cashier who sold me our last fix and is, apparently, not off base. Watermelons, she whispered to me, carefully modulating her voice lest some unwitting customer overhear such subversive information, are aphrodisiacs. Huh.
And so it is that scientists report that one of the phyto-nutrients found in watermelon, citrulline, has a Viagra-like effect. About 40 per cent of the citrulline is found in the flesh, the rest in the rind. Once processed by the body, it turns into another compound that can relax blood vessels and increase blood flow, much like Viagra does. The citrulline also helps remove ammonia and other toxic compounds, which can’t hurt your chances of feeling good either.
So those Maasai, who measured their wealth by the number of children they had and cattle they owned, weren’t just fooling around with those big juicy melons.
Also, citrulline, in the form of citrulline malate, is sold as a performance-enhancing athletic dietary supplement, which is said to reduce muscle fatigue.
And if that ain’t enough to convince you to drag a few watermelons along to your next desert isle, Harold McGee, in On Food and Cooking , explains that the classic dark red watermelon, which contains the carotenoid pigment, lycopene, is a much richer source of this antioxidant than tomatoes. So eat!
As for the flavour and fragrance of a good watermelon, they simply compound the overall aphrodisiacal experience of eating a thick juice-dripping slice on a hot summer’s day.
McGee describes the ideal watermelon as having a crunchy, crisp, but tender consistency, a moderately sweet taste, and a delicate, almost green aroma. In fact, good watermelon isn’t all that sweet on the sweetness scale, or at least it shouldn’t be. Watermelon has about 9 per cent sugar content by weight, compared to oranges at 10 per cent, blueberries at 11 per cent, bananas at 18 per cent, and raspberries and strawberries at a measly 6 per cent. (Semi-dried dates take the sugar-cake at 60 per cent!)
The trick is to pick one out that is heavy for its size, resonates with a solid sound when you give it a good thunk, and has a nice yellow undertone to the skin, which means it’s lost some chlorophyll and so is ripe. They only ripen on the vine, so no use in keeping it to ripen up, although, just like a good tomato, a watermelon that’s never seen the inside of your fridge will have more flavour. One that’s cut should keep nicely on the counter under a sheet of wax paper for a day or two unless your place is smokin’ hot. At least bring it to room temperature before you serve it.
And while you’re munching away, take note of the fact that you can actually see the large cells of the flesh with your naked eye — something we humans don’t get to appreciate every day.
Likewise watermelon pickles, which used to be a popular treat made by pickling the flesh or rind, something that may make a comeback once the news about their Viagra-like effects spreads. One subgroup of watermelons with inedible flesh is actually grown just for the rind, which can also be candied or cooked into a syrup. And, yes, you can use the seeds, roasting them or grinding and infusing them into a drink.
But this drink, you’ll find, is a much finer idea. I suggest doubling the recipe, it will go down so fast, especially if you add a splash of gin or vodka to enjoy these hot summer nights.
Raspberry Watermelon Cooler
(from 1,000 Vegetarian Recipes )
3 c cubed, pitted watermelon
1 10-oz package frozen raspberries in light syrup
1 c club soda
Sugar to taste
Place 1.5 c of the watermelon into a blender with the raspberries. Cover and blend till smooth (strain out the seeds if desired). Pour into a 1-qt pitcher. Blend the rest of the watermelon and add it with soda and sugar to taste. Variation: Blend 1 c blueberries with the second batch of watermelon. Makes 1 qt; serves 4-6.
Glenda Bartosh is an award-winning freelance writer who
loved Jolly Rancher watermelon candies (do they still make them?).
