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Food and drink: Pinot envy

Kiwi pinot producers aim to be among the world’s best

First time pinot noir drinkers usually succumb to its silky, juicy fruit while veteran swillers simply admire the concentration and depth of flavour that springs from the mysterious red that is as fickle as the wind. But ever since we met would-be novelist and pinot noir drinker Miles Raymond in the movie Sideways , the race has been on around the world to produce more of the finicky, temperamental, thin-skinned grape.

Burgundy remains the eternal home of pinot, and its famed Cote d'Or landscape and original patchwork of climats (single vineyards) reflect all the subtle facets of its terroir.

After that you can turn to an ever-growing number of regions, such as Central Otago, Martinborough, Canterbury, Nelson and Marlborough in New Zealand; Russian River, Carneros, Monterey and Santa Barbara County in California; and Leyda, Casablanca, and Marchigue in Chile. Throw in Oregon's Willamette and Rogue valleys; Tasmania and Yarra Valley in Australia; parts of coastal South Africa; British Columbia and Ontario and... well, you get the picture the game is on.

Pinot's move to prime time is heightened by its affinity for food. In his well-researched book North American Pinot , John Winthrop Haeger says "pinot's modest tannins give it greater flexibility in food pairings than high-tannin varieties that often call out for the moderating influence of animal fat."

On the heels of a recent trip to New Zealand, where Kiwi producers are on a mission to take their place among the world's best pinot producers, it's hard to argue they won't achieve their goal - and possibly more.

The heartbreak grape is grown in several areas of New Zealand including Canterbury and its sub-region Waipara; Waitaki, on the border between Otago and Canterbury; Martinborough at the southern end of the North Island; Marlborough at the northern end of the South Island and, finally, perhaps the most famous of all, Central Otago near the southern reaches of South Island.

Each area is developing a sense of style and place but overriding all of that is a delicious factor and a price/quality ratio that simply screams, drink me.

At all price ranges, New Zealand pinot noir over delivers and given its imminent arrival at next month's Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival http://www.playhousewinefest.com/ I wanted to share some of my favourites with you now, in case you're inclined to do some homework.

Ata Rangi Crimson Pinot Noir 2008, Martinborough

Crimson may be the archetypal New World pinot noir, half Burgundy - the good half - and half New World - the best half. The nose and palate are in sync, sharing a spicy, black fruit character and a long, silky, smooth texture from front to back with moderate tannins and a dry, earthy, savoury note throughout. It's more than an introductory wine that should be on every restaurant list in the city. $28

Escarpment 'The Edge' Pinot Noir 2008, Martinborough

Another introductory, baby brother label designed to get the winery's foot into the market. The Edge is a delicious mix of red and black fruits, with just the right spicing and an undercurrent of French oak for support. Its attractive, silky, slippery flavours can distract you from the structure and fruit that is simply surprising for the price. $25

Mount Riley Pinot Noir 2008, Marlborough

The grapes are sourced from Marlborough and Nelson, and a wide mix of pinot noir clones add complexity. Look for floral, liquorice, spicy orange aromas, supple tannins and a wild mix of tobacco leaf, caraway, carrot top, cherry, orange peel and strawberry flavours. Good finesse. Roast chicken, anyone? $25

Oyster Bay Pinot Noir 2008, Marlborough

As always, there is intense varietal pinot fruit character on the nose with bits of spice and curry. The palate is silky smooth and packed full of sweet, round, plummy fruit that slides down easily. The finish is equally supple with dry savoury, earthy red fruit notes. Duck or chicken. Would love to see this wine at $19, where it could own the market, and given its production and the current strength of the loonie it's likely doable. $25

Triplebank Pinot Noir 2007, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand

Round, dry, juicy, supple "Marlborough style" with celery salt and spice and earthy, light vanilla, smoky mineral tea flavours with a dusting of tannins. A more herbal style of pinot noir, but with finesse. Think duck. $24

Rabbit Ranch Pinot Noir 2007, Central Otago, South Island, New Zealand

Rabbits are everywhere in Central Otago but tasty pinot for $25 is much rarer. This second label from the brilliant Chard Farm lineup that remains remarkably absent from B.C. liquor store shelves is a great introduction to the magic of Central Otago. Love the elegant palate and spicy, mineral, rhubarb, black cherry, orange peel flavours and the smoky, garrigue finish. Fair value for high quality New World pinot. $25

Shingle Peak Pinot Noir 2008 Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand

The entry is soft and simple with fine underlying acidity and a juicy five-spice, black fruit finish. Solid effort at an affordable price. Definitely serve this with pinot-friendly foods. $24

Stoneleigh Pinot Noir 2007, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand

The vineyard sites all sit on the northern side of the Wairau Valley close to the Wairau River, where the poor stony, silty soils allow the pinot to find its natural balance and offer up a delightful savoury, strawberry, barnyard nose. The palate is supple and similarly flavoured with rhubarb, strawberry, cola and compost flavours. A simple, stylish food wine. $20

Villa Maria Pinot Noir Private Bin 2007, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand

Villa Maria always over delivers at the entry level and one sip of this supple, juicy, round crisply executed pinot should convince you. Spicy, tobacco, caraway, thyme, strawberry, celery and liquorice flavours dot the palate. Solid fruit balanced with just enough oak. Try this with your favourite pork tenderloin dish. $24

All in all, this is a shockingly fine group of affordable pinot noir that's merely the tip of the iceberg when it comes to what is available in New Zealand.

Combine that with our superior currency and the future is bright for the Kiwi version of the heartbreak grape.

 

Anthony Gismondi is a globetrotting wine writer who makes his home in West Vancouver, British Columbia. For more of his thoughts on wine log onto www.gismondionwine.com