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Food and drink: Positively pretty in pink

Rosé, rosé everywhere and not a drop of sunshine to drink (it with)

Deadlines can be the bane of any writer, but in British Columbia writing about summer wines, with no sign of summer in sight, can be downright exasperating. Alas, I’m so bullish on rosé this summer I’m suggesting that whether you need to wear shorts or pull on a sweater you’ll make use of this column in the weeks to come, rain or shine.

The rush to pink has been a gradual gait in B.C. now firmly established by an enlightened policy from government buyers that encourages the arrival and sales of rosé from May through September. The idea is to sell the salmon-coloured wine all summer and then say good-bye to the category in early fall until late spring.

I have to say it works for me, despite the weather. The tip for consumers is to drink the freshest versions you can find, which means any 2007 or, in the case of southern hemisphere pinks, it could include some early release 2008s that will arrive in the weeks and months to come.

Not all that long ago our rosé of choice was very sweet, but those days and that style are now passé. The new pink will have you blushing, albeit with less sugar or at least more acidity and body to freshen up the flavour profile. It may explain the use of the “pink” moniker among producers and retailers as they try to distance themselves from the sweet, candied rosés of the past.

The trick with coming to know and perhaps even coming to respect rosé is to experience it under ideal conditions. My epiphany occurred on a patio in the south of Spain. The temperature was in the high 30s. There was a warm wind blowing in off the Mediterranean, the tapas were tiny and perfect and the pink wine was perfectly chilled. It was magic.

Modern day rosé is no longer made by blending red wine with white. Most of the new labels begin life as red wine black grapes, crushed and fermenting on skins. The colour varies widely from pale salmon/orange to bright pink and medium to dark red, depending on the grapes involved.

After a few hours of skin contact, the lightly coloured juice is drained off. The result is an appealing, mostly white wine with a tinge of red/pink/orange colour and just enough flavour and tannin to stand up to a wide array of stylish, al fresco summer bites. And if it happens to be sparkling, well, let the party begin.

As to why pink wines are so fashionable now, it probably has less to do with technology and marketing and more to do with consumers embracing the concept of rosé because they are as confident as ever about their wine choices. After years of exploring different grapes and many wine styles, rosé is just another style whose time has come.

Naturally, we approach it with more knowledge and interest than ever before and that means it has to taste better (read a little less sweet) to hold our interest. Just being pink is no longer good enough, but in the case of rosé it seems it really is better than ever, all you need do is open your mind and your palate.

Interestingly it’s rosé’s ability to brighten lunch or a tapas meal that will move it past the patio and on to the table. With six or seven weeks of summer ahead (you have to believe) and temperature is sure to soar during some of those days, we suggest you do some pink research of your own. You may be surprised to discover just how much fun drinking wine can be.

What follows is a perfect case of rose designed for a pink party. All you have to do is supply sunshine and friends.

 

Sparkling Rosé  

SEGURA VIUDAS LAVIT ROSADO BRUT N/V CAVA, PENEDÈS, SPAIN

A modern crisp, sparkler brimming with cherry, mineral, citrus rind and nutty toasted flavours. $16.50

MATEUS ROSÉ N/V, DOURO - BAIRRADA, PORTUGAL

The ultimate retro pink with citrus, earthy, mineral apple flavours and a slightly sweet finish. $10

CODORNÍU PINOT NOIR BRUT N/V SANT SADURNÍ D’ANOIA, PENEDÈS, SPAIN

Soft, creamy and round style sparkler with fine red fruit intensity. $20

BARTOLOMEO BREGANZE PROSECCO MARZEMINO ROSATO EXTRA DRY N/V, VENETO, ITALY

Fresh cherry, floral, green apple aromas with bright acidity and red apple, mineral, melon flavours. $22

 

Still Rosé

TORRES DE CASTA ROSÉ 2007, CATALUNYA, SPAIN

A masterful blend of garnacha tinta and cariñena bursting with black raspberry and cherry scents. $13

LA VIEILLE FERME CÔTES DU VENTOUX ROSÉ 2007, SOUTHERN RHONE, FRANCE

Dry, but not too dry, with crisp earthy, mineral, floral, raspberry fruit. The perfect luncheon wine. $14

DOMAINE LAFOND TAVEL ROC-EPINE 2006, SOUTHERN RHONE VALLEY, FRANCE

Big bright, citrus, fruit nose with candied red fruit flavours with bits of earth and mineral. $23

LOUIS JADOT ROSÉ DE MARSANNAY DOMAINE CLAIR DAÜ 2006, BURGUNDY, FRANCE

Soft and rich with an earthy, spicy, red fruit undercurrent. Best with grilled pork. $24

ESPELT CORALÍ ROSÉ 2007, EMPORDÀ, AMPURDAIN-COSTA BRAVA, SPAIN

Lip smacking, dry with fresh and lively floral fruit flavours that call for food. $16

SANDHILL ROSÉ   SANDHILL ESTATE VINEYARD 2007, OKANAGAN VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA

Cherry, banana, earthy notes with mineral, cranberry flavours. Easy sipping picnic pink. $18

DOMAINE LE PIVE GRIS 2007, LANGUEDOC , FRANCE

Bright aromatic with red fruits, dried herbs and strawberry citrus leafy notes. $15

MORANDÉ PIONERO CABERNET SAUVIGNON SYRAH ROSÉ 2007, REGION DEL VALLE CENTRAL, CHILE

Look for fresh tangy acidity on the palate with savoury, strawberry/cherry fruit flavours. $13

 

Anthony Gismondi is a globetrotting wine writer who makes his home in West Vancouver, British Columbia. For more of his thoughts on wine log onto www.gismondionwine.com