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What’s red and white and green all over? The new colour of wine

By Anthony Gismondi

The current rush to organic anything may seem like a passing fad but when it comes to grape growing, sustainability and the environment are heading for prime time.

Wineries across the globe have been working to minimize their footprint on the land and whether it’s practicing sustainable agriculture, organic farming or the holy grail of organics -- biodynamic farming-- the move to environmentally-friendly grape growing and winemaking is underway big time.

No chemicals is the mantra for organic grapes but The Oxford Companion to Wine struggles to define organic wine, calling it an “imprecise term for wine made from grapes produced by organic viticulture using a minimum of chemicals during winemaking.”

According to Sainsbury’s, a leading UK’s supermarket retailer, that recently launched a new line of SO organic wine, there are over 500 organic wine producers worldwide and many more are trialling organic wines.

This month California biodynamic (organics +) producer Mike Benziger made the cover of the ultra-conservative, Wine Spectator magazine, signalling a major awakening of American consumers and producers with respect to wine production as it relates to the stewardship of the land.

Biodynamics is based on a holistic approach to farming developed in the early 20th century by the late Austrian scientist-philosopher Rudolph Steiner. It embraces the idea that the world contains an energy force that is in tune with cosmic rhythms.

“While it encompasses many of the principles of organic farming, such as the elimination of all chemicals, biodynamics goes further, requiring close attention to the varied forces of nature influencing the vine,” says Mike Benziger, the winemaker at Benziger Winery in California. “It also emphasizes a closed, self-sustaining ecosystem.”

The theory isn’t for everyone. I asked New Zealand’s leading biodynamic advocate James Milton how one could interest growers and consumers in biodynamic wines, given its obvious spiritual component.

“Think of life as a series of windows you can choose to open and explore or not,” he said calmly.

Benziger explains biodynamics as, “The science of enhancing and connecting energy sources into a holistic system. It connects us to the universe through the sun that drives photosynthesis in our vines. It connects us to the earth through the complex and dense web of roots.

“The more diverse, the denser and the more connected an environment of plants, animals and microbes are on a piece of property, the more concentrated the natural energies are. These energies evolve with care over time to form a ‘consciousness’ which the land takes on.”

If you are wondering why you don’t hear or see more about organic or biodynamic wine it may be because there are only a small number of formally certified organic wine producers. Many organic or near-organic producers prefer not to play the organic card, preferring to instead to let the wine speak for itself.

Traditionally centered in France, especially the south, organic wines have spread to most parts of the world where grapes are grown, most successfully in the drier environments. The drier the region, the less disease pressure there is, the easier the transition, so expect the south of France, parts of Spain, Australia, South Africa, the south Okanagan Valley, and areas of California and Chile to really exceed.

Nevertheless, as mentioned earlier, organic will mean little to serious wine drinkers unless the quality of the wine is equal to or better than its non-organic peers. The good news is a handful of excellent organic wines are breaking down the barriers and many are showing up in British Columbia wine stores.

This month we turn to a few crusaders that are changing the organic wine market for the better. Here are a dozen organic wines that will enhance your next garden party and turn your neighbours green with envy:

 

Adobe Chardonnay Orgánico 2005, Valle de Casablanca, Chile $14

Adobe Chardonnay is a stylish, affordable quality organic wine with a ripe melon fruit nose with a refreshingly lean mid-palate flecked with mineral and honeyed fruit flavours.

Beaucastel 2004 Châteauneuf du Pape, Rhone Valley, France $92

Always bold. This is serious red wine you can cellar or if you must drink it pair with a strong meat dish such as roast lamb.

Bonterra Vineyards Chardonnay 2005, Mendocino County, California $20

Bonterra gets better and the price keeps dropping --- it’s a rare combination. So tasty it is hard to believe you are saving the earth. Great food wine.

Carmen Carmenère Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, Valle del Maipo, Chile $15

Dry, round entry with grainy tannins and tobacco, cassis jam, black cherry and green olive flavours. Barbecue ribs would do well here.

Casa de Ermita 2005 Purple Capsule, Jumilla, Spain $19

A full measure red that mixes mourvèdre, merlot, tempranillo, syrah and cabernet sauvignon. Think grilled steaks here.

Domaine de L'Olivette Blanc Organic 2003, Corbières, Languedoc, France $16

Soft, round, dry palate with spicy, citrus butter, quince, pear and mineral flavours. Perfect for grilled seafood.

Dr. L 2006 Riesling, Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany $18

Let’s see, an organic, screwcap riesling full of life and fruit. Pick up a bottle or two and grab some take-out Chinese.

Emiliana Orgánico Adobe Syrah 2004, Valle del Colchagua, Chile $15

Smoky, resin, peppery, blackberry, mineral, dark chocolate, coffee grind, meaty flavours. Terrific value and 100 per cent organic.

Finca Luzon Jumilla Organic 2005 Jumilla, Valencia and Murcia, Spain $15

One of the most affordable organic wines in the market. Look for long warm, peppery, fruity flavours with cherry chocolate and earth in the finish.

Lurton Terra Sana Syrah 2005, Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, France $15

Warm flavours of spicy red fruits and earthy meaty undertones. An easy match to beef dishes grilled or roasted.

Summerhill 2005/2006 Ehrenfelser, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia $25

Bright fresh organic and Canadian, all you need is your favourite spicy Asian dish for a perfect global match.

Villa Teresa Prosecco Veneto 2004, Veneto, Italy $16

Dry, crisp, creamy sparkler with pear, melon skin, mineral flavours with a floral finish. Dry, elegant organic bubbles.

Anthony Gismondi is a globetrotting wine writer who makes his home in West Vancouver, British Columbia. For more of his thoughts on wine log onto www.gismondionwine.com