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A year for British Columbia wines

For the past decade I have been charged with the task of running the Wine Access Canadian Wine Awards. The late summer competition sees 16 of the country's most experienced wine tasters work their way through some 1,100 wines grown and produced in Canada as they seek to ascertain who made the best wines of the year.

In many ways it's the ultimate Canadian wine snapshot, and judging by the results in 2010 many British Columbia wineries remain among the best in the country. After five days of intense tastings it is safe to say the best wine in the country is estate-made and, in the case of modern-day Canadian vineyards, they are tended with a new respect for the land.

Many wineries are making a substantial commitment to the environment, reducing bottle weights, conserving and reusing water, growing organic fruit or just generally reducing their carbon footprint. Add to that more and more extensive international experience by our winemakers and viticulturalists and, as Martha Stewart would say, it is all good.

Something else I've noticed is the flood of screwcap-finished wines. Over 50 per cent of the entries in the competition were sporting twisted metal caps. In such a cool-climate region, there is no underestimating how much the screwcap closure, which helps to present the wine exactly as it was intended to be shown, has advanced the pristine nature of B.C.'s white wines.

As we head into the heart of winter and visitors flood into Whistler, I thought it might be useful to look at some of best B.C. wines you can buy. Of course, the wine world never stands still, so some of my picks reflect the best wines tasted since the late August showdown in Penticton.

The best labels are never easy to find so expect to see some in private stores, in B.C. VQA wine stores, government B.C. Liquor Stores and, of course, on many Whistler restaurant wine lists. We suggest you clip this list and keep it with you. You never know when it will come in handy.

Burrowing Owl Cabernet Franc 2007, Oliver, Okanagan Valley $35

The BOV franc has a bit of that Cheval Blanc mineral thing under its ripe, spicy, earthy, black fruit. Just a whiff of local sage pulls the entire wine together. It will handily keep a decade. Impressive as always, especially with roast beef.

Jackson-Triggs Okanagan 2007 SunRock Vineyard Shiraz, Oliver, Okanagan Valley $35
Impressive every year, this single vineyard syrah is an intense mix of white pepper, smoked meat and black fruit from back to front. Dense, rich, bright and glossy, it's syrah that will appeal to those who love the New World with a twist of France.

Blue Mountain Pinot Blanc 2009, Okanagan Valley $18 The '09 is positively swimming in bright fruit, showing bits of peaches and apricots with flecks of citrus rind and green pear. Halibut, salmon, clams and even crab would be a wonderful fit here.

Joie A Noble Blend 2009, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley $24

Edelzwicker, the Alsace quaffer, is the model and this spicy aromatic ginger and mineral scented white with strong grapefruit rind and grassy, peach pit, green apple flavours has summer written all over it.

Laughing Stock Vineyards Portfolio 2007, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley $48

Tight peppery, espresso, smoky oak nose with savoury herbs and cassis aromas and flavours. The texture is the best yet with an oaky/warm finish. Best in five years or drink now with a steak.

Mission Hill S.L.C. 2007 Syrah, Oliver, Okanagan Valley $40

Open, intense spicy, vanilla, meaty sausage, floral nose with black berry, boysenberry and smoky, liquorice, savoury flavours. Good finesse and styling and certainly the best yet from MH.

Mission Hill 2007 Legacy Series Compendium, Oliver, Okanagan Valley $40

The new Compendium opens with a smooth palate overlaying plenty of structure. Red fruits with a minty, savoury, ginger undercurrent attract. Another red that will benefit with some extra bottle time. Best now with grilled lamb or venison.

Painted Rock 2007 Syrah, Skaha Bench, Okanagan Valley $40
Dry, round, elegant, supple palate with coffee, vanilla, herbal, roasted pepper, resin, caraway, savoury, sour cherry, mocha flavours. Try this with lamb or roast beef.

Road 13 Jackpot 2008 Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley $37

Rich spicy, buttery, lees, baked apple/citrus aromas and flavours. The attack is dry and elegant with bright fruit and fine complexity. Drink now or hold for three years. Try it with lobster.

Quails' Gate 2008 Chardonnay Family Reserve, Okanagan Valley $30

One of the top five chardonnays made in the province, the QG Reserve has a rich smoky, nutty, spicy, character with a creamy, nutty passion fruit, mineral, melon palate. Perfect with Dungeness crab.

Quails' Gate Late Harvest Totally Botrytis Affected 2008 Optima, Okanagan Valley $33 (375ml)

Fresh spicy, lychee, baked apple, honey, orange rind flavours. Good juicy style with lots of fun fruit. Drink while young and fresh to retain the fruit. Delicious dessert wine.

Sandhill 2009 Pinot Gris King Family Vineyard, Naramata, Okanagan Valley $18

Over the years this wine has settled into its fresh, juicy persona offering up bits of pear and tropical fruit with a touch of Okanagan peach. Try it with spicy wraps and or crab cakes.

Stoneboat Vineyards 2009 Verglas, Oliver, Okanagan Valley $33 (200mL)

Rich, sweet, round, fresh but soft palate with creamy, honey, orange, dried apricot, baked apple, pear flavours with long, unctuous finish. Who needs dessert, this is it.

Tinhorn Creek Oldfield Series 2007 Syrah, Okanagan Valley $35 Winemaker Sandra Oldfield's signature shiraz is supple and elegant with fresh acidity and a big peppery coffee, smoky, savoury, meaty flavours flecked with dried herbs. One of the best from Tinhorn.

Twisted Tree 2009 Viognier Roussanne, Osoyoos, Okanagan Valley $29

Round, rich, slightly sweet entry but fresh with ginger, orange, lemon peel, grassy, gooseberry, grapefruit rind, butter and guava flavours. A delicious seafood wine.

 

Anthony Gismondi is a globetrotting wine writer who makes his home in West Vancouver, British Columbia. For more of his thoughts on wine log onto www.gismondionwine.com .