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Food and Drink

Argentine producers tango for shelf space

If Mendoza, Argentina isn’t the perfect place to grow grapes, it can’t be far from nirvana. Less than one per cent organic matter in the soil ensures naturally low yields, while dry weather and complete control over the amount of water used in the vineyard means the production of high quality grapes is as much about attitude as it is about altitude.

A lot has changed since the early days of winemaking, which was spearheaded by Italian and Spanish immigrants. Of particular interest are the high altitude slopes of the Andean foothills, where extreme exposure to sunlight and cool temperatures shapes the savoury/peppery aspects of Mendoza reds.

While the malbec gets the glory, the structure and savoury flavours tend to permeate all red varieties. White wines have been slower to change to the fresher, less-oaked, more fruity definition, but much progress has been made with chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and, lately, even viognier.

Alas, a quick tour of the B.C. Liquor Store shelves reveals Argentine listings to be sparse, to say the least, at 74 labels in total. Compare that with nearly 200 shiraz or shiraz blends from Australia alone, and you sense the inequality — or at least the size of the hill Argentine producers face to climb into the market.

That said, you have to play the hand you’re dealt, and it’s especially true when it comes to buying wine in B.C.

There isn’t much Argentine white wine listed, but what’s here is worth looking at. The bargain is the Santa Julia 2005 Viognier ($11). This has a fresh mineral, honey, butter, citrus, flavour with a touch of Creamsicle. A versatile aperitif or serve with Thai/Indian food.

Argentine chardonnay has a bright future as it trends toward the crisper, cooler fruit styles and less of the oaky, buttery, fat aspects. Certainly the cooler, high altitude vineyards of Mendoza, and in particular the Uco Valley, are well-suited to its production.

Local picks should include Catena Zapata 2005 Chardonnay ($24) at the premium end; the Dona Paula 2004 Chardonnay ($17) and Alamos 2005 Chardonnay ($17) in the middle range; and two tasty budget 2006 chardonnays, Finca Los Primos 2005 and Trivento 2005 Reserve , both of which retail for less than $10.

Malbec remains the king of Mendoza reds and would top my buying list. I see no reason why 75 malbec listings couldn’t be available immediately. Mendoza’s terroir appears uniquely suited to this variety, especially from key locations — higher sites in the Uco Valley, Lujan de Cujo, Maipu, or the hot (actually cool) new area down south, Neuquén.

The combination of soil and altitude gives the malbec savoury, desert, sage-like characters unique to Mendoza, much like the garrigue character found in the southern Rhone and sagebrush notes in the south Okanagan Valley.

My value picks are perfect for barbecues and large parties, and the price is a joke. Finca Los Primos 2005 Malbec ($9) delivers black cherry, smoky, savoury, licorice and tobacco flavours well beyond its cost. You can ditto that for the Finca Flichman 2005 Malbec Oak Aged ($11) and the Pascual Toso 2005 Malbec ($12) .

Another dollar or two gets you more intensity and less rusticity. Stand-out value can be had with the Viu Manent 2005 Malbec ($13). Look for a fat almost sweet-tasting malbec brimming with licorice, black fruit and tobacco.   The Los Cardos 2005 Malbec ($14) , from the Ugarteche District of Luján de Cuyo in Mendoza, sports round, supple fruit flavours with spicy, clove, cherry and roasted mushroom flavours and that typical savoury finish.

New to the market is Jean Bousquet 2005 Malbec ($16) out of Tupungato. The all-organic malbec grapes are grown at 1,200 metres and offer a toasty, savoury black fruit and mocha flavour.

It’s the mid- to upper-end Argentine wines that really excite, and when compared with similarly priced wines from other countries, again, the over–deliver concept is in plain view.

The Doña Paula 2005 Malbec ($21) has all the plum pudding, coffee, licorice, savoury aromas and the meaty but not heavy licorice, black cherry fruit flavours. Think T-bone steak. Similarly, the Catena Zapata 2004 Malbec ($25) made with less new oak and several different clones from several different vineyards bring a good deal of sophistication for the price. Its fruit is a mix of licorice and chocolate and black cherry with flecks of orange and more savoury garrigue notes. Mmmm.

The Fincas Don Martino 2003 Violetas Malbec ($29) will grab you with its peppery, cardamom, poultry spice, minty, black cherry nose and black cherry, orange peel, white pepper and garrigue flavours. This is serious malbec.

Not yet tasted but just arriving are the great labels of Achával-Ferrer :   the Malbec 2005 ($27) , and Finca Altamira 2004 Malbec ($110). More of the archetype without the hype.

Cabernet sauvignon quality is improving, but has suffered from being planted in less than optimal sites. Improved site selection, clones and canopy management are all underway. Best bets here are the contrasting, cool climate/herbaceous Michel Torino 2005 Don David Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve ($16) from Cafayate, Salta and the ripe, silky, black cherry-, coffee-flavoured Pascual Toso 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve ($21) from Maipú, Mendoza.

Syrah is a rising star despite limited plantings, so we need to wait for this grape to get some much-needed attention from growers. Tempranillo and sangiovese are old mainstays whose appeal is mostly to the more traditional domestic market; little is exported. Pinot noir remains a challenge that easily sunburns at high altitude, so new and cooler sites must be explored.

Well, there you have it — a brief introduction to the wines of Argentina. Young in terms of this new style of wine, but well along the quality trail.

These are wines that have just enough of a twist in flavour to be considered off the beaten varietal track and a worthy dance partner at your next dinner party. The reds are meat- and chicken-friendly; the new whites are ready for seafood. Expect a much greater selection in local stores sooner rather than later.

 

Anthony Gismondi is a globetrotting wine writer who makes his home in West Vancouver, British Columbia. For more of his thoughts on wine log onto www.gismondionwine.com