It’s been three years since we first mention screw cap closures in this column. For those of you still debating the merits of the twist-off top, get over it. Screw caps are here to stay at some level, especially if the wine is white and the grapes in question are sauvignon blanc, riesling, viognier, ehrenfelser, gewürztraminer (do you sense an aromatic theme?) pinot gris/grigio, rosé, and even a fair bit of chardonnay, too.
That’s not to say you cannot have a great bottle of wine bearing a cork. Only that the cork, good or defective, alters the flavour of the wine. At least it is my contention that even the finest cork in the world tends to shave off or, at the very least, dampen the last five to seven per cent of the most delicate fruit aromas and flavours found in wine. While that may be useful for big, rich alcoholic reds, when it comes to summer sippers, it’s simply not acceptable.
We want to enjoy the fresh, soaring fruit and minerality in our aromatic wines and be free from the dreaded 2,4,6-trichloroanisole (TCA), or cork taint, and its mix of mildew, mold and damp basement odours. For the moment, screw caps appear to be the wine closure best suited to make that happen with wine. At less than 10 parts per trillion (the level at which oenologists are expected to detect taint) TCA can wipe out the delicate aromatics that come from perfectly ripened fruit faster than you can say, “Waiter, this wine is corked.”
Ironically, while producers and growers argued about whether consumers would accept a closure that was once associated with the cheap and nasty wines of yesteryear, no one could foresee how quickly consumers would embrace the easy opening cap. We may not know cork taint when we smell it but give us a reason not to use a corkscrew and we don’t need to be asked twice.
Clean, fresh wines that are easy to open have to be considered de rigueur as we head to the patio for summer. All we need now is a little sunshine and some wine suggestions.
This month I’ve delved into my database for the latest in affordable, top-scoring, screw-capped finished wines. Enjoy the assurance that every bottle tastes just as the winemaker had intended. And don’t forget to cut this list out and post it where you can find it all summer.
PATIO TWISTERS
CedarCreek Ehrenfelser 2007 Okanagan
Valley, British Columbia, Canada $18
Love its floral, orange, mineral, spicy nose and flavours. So fresh and inviting, this just-off dry white is an attractive bottle of wine. Think spicy foods, even sweet and sour BBQ spareribs. Less is more here.
Conundrum 2005, California $30
This classic California aromatic wine is a heady blend of sauvignon blanc, sémillon, chardonnay, viognier and muscat Canelli, and under screw cap it’s never tasted better. Serve solo or with spicy Asian or Indian dishes.
Dr. L Riesling 2007, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer,
Germany $19
This is a fresh, moderately ripe riesling with candied lemon and mineral flavours. A delicious luncheon wine low in alcohol, it also does well served solo before those backyard barbecues even start, or think crab in a black bean sauce.
Errazuriz Chardonnay Wild Ferment 2007,
Valle de Casablanca, Chile $22
Hand-picked, whole-cluster pressed and fermented with natural, wild yeast in stainless steel tanks. The result is a mix of minerals, lees and butter. A very sexy patio sipper before, during and after food.
Gray Monk Gewürztraminer 2007, Okanagan
Valley, British Columbia, Canada $16
Fresh, round, light bodied style with some sweetness but decent acidity. Grapefruit, peach skin, floral, spicy, green apple flavours. A summer patio sipper.
La Vieille Ferme Côtes du Ventoux Rosé
2007, Rhone Valley, France $14
The perfect luncheon rosé you can take to a picnic. Look for mouth-watering, crisp acidity and wonderful freshness all preserved by its easy-opening screw cap closure. Love the pink, too.
Bodega Lurton Pinot Gris 2007, Valle de
Uco, Mendoza, Argentina $12.50
Pinot gris/grigio in Argentina makes sense, given the Italians in Mendoza, but this one is made by the French connection of Jacques and Francois Lurton. Plenty of mineral and nectarine aromas move on the super crisp, dry palate that calls for oysters, clams or sushi. Very fine value at less than $13.
Skillogalee Hand-Picked Riesling 2007,
Clare Valley, South Australia $25
Bright floral, slate, lemon, almond, oyster shell nose with elegant, fresh fruit flavours of lime, slate, orange peel, passion fruit and butter flavours. Perfect for spicy Thai or sushi.
Teddy Hall Chenin Blanc 2007, Stellenbosch,
Coastal Region, South Africa $17
Teddy Hall is well known in the Cape for producing top Chenin Blanc. This has a lightweight, fruity entry with zippy acidity and bits of floral orange blossoms to spice up the finish. Sip solo on the patio or pair it up with small bites before dinner.
Torres Vina Esmeralda 2006, Catalunya,
Spain $15
Esmeralda under screw cap is a great example of how a screw cap preserves that final five per cent of the aromas and flavours, allowing the wine to soar to new heights. Drink this bright, zesty, lychee-scented, lemon-lime flavour wine all summer.
Villa Maria Riesling Private Bin 2007,
Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $18
Round, fresh, crisp, moderately dry and elegant with heaps of lime, green apple skin, guava, light diesel and nectarine flavours. Perfect with grilled pork off the barbecue.
Wirra Wirra Scrubby Rise 2007, McLaren
Vale, South Australia $17
Fresh and dry with grassy, green melon, grapefruit aromas and favours flecked with mineral, lime rind and honey bits. Consistent quality at fine value. Serve with chilled Dungeness crab.
Yalumba Y Series Viognier 2006 Barossa
Valley, South Australia $18
The honey, rose petal, Creamsicle, ginger nose is enough to excite the senses. Add ginger, nectarine, apricot, mineral flavours and you have the perfect sushi wine. All you need is a seat on the patio.
Anthony Gismondi is a globetrotting wine writer who makes his home in West Vancouver, British Columbia. For more of his thoughts on wine log onto
