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"I love cooking in every kind of style," says Ryan. "You have to keep up on the trends without becoming trendy. My wife is Japanese so I find Asian influences slipping into my cooking. I find myself eating a lot more sushi now, but my wife loves North American food too. She loves my shepherds pie."

While Ryan believes in keeping up with the latest trends, Evergreens main courses include a lot of traditional fare like rack of lamb, ribeye steak, tiger prawns and salmon, which Ryan is totally enthused about.

"There is nothing wrong with a having a little marble or fat running through your ribeye steak. That’s what gives it its great flavour. I wouldn’t recommend having a steak every day, but once a week is great. Everything in moderation. Just like there is nothing wrong with butter. Butter is just cream and salt. You ever see all the chemicals listed on a margarine tub?"

One tradition that Evergreens dropped over the summer was their weekend brunch which featured almost every kind of fresh carved meat, fish, egg and pastry known to man.

"Yes, that was a great buffet, wasn’t it?" Ryan says rather wistfully.

"Hopefully we can bring it back some day, but we had to discontinue it as the cost of the food and labour weren’t being met by customer demand."

While Ryan would like to bring back the Evergreens monstrous buffet, he has more than enough to keep himself busy with the day to day running of his kitchen and staff.

"My wife thinks I’m nuts when I bound out of bed at 5 in the morning to come to work. I just love everything about it. I like doing the ordering. I deal with 14 suppliers and they all send me incredible food. I like doing the scheduling and staffing for the kitchen. We've got a great group of guys here. But most of all, I enjoy the cooking."

While Ryan loves being an executive chef and all its pressures and demands, he is the farthest thing from the prima donna chefs that Bourdain admires and skewers in his best selling expose.

"No, while I really admired Bourdain’s storytelling and his style, I’m not a screamer. My dishwasher couldn’t believe that I was sweeping the floor the other day. But I do whatever needs to be done. And if my staff sees me sweeping the floor then they know that they can do it too."

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