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Get Stuffed

An old friend gets a new look
I truly think we offer the best cuisine in the village. The attention to detail that myself and the staff pay to our sauces and seasonings is unsurpassable " — Shane Robilliard.

Locals’ approval spreading like Wildflower

When a friend gets a facelift, or a modern new look, it’s only natural to want to check it out, and that seems to be the case with one of Whistler’s favourite fine dining restaurants, The Wildflower.

The Fairmont Chateau Whistler’s main dining attraction has been noticing a lot of local faces at the tables of late, eager to check out the $1.5 million worth of changes.

The restaurant at the base of Blackcomb mountain, well known for its sumptuous buffets in the past, has now gone almost entirely a-la-carte. With an exciting new menu, a new private wine tasting room, a new friendly bar, a gorgeous décor overhaul and just two signature buffets kept behind for good business, it’s definitely a place that gourmet food fanatics are lining up to rediscover.

"As soon as you walk in you can see the atmosphere has really evolved," said the Wildflower’s assistant food and beverage director, Caroline Heaney. "It’s taken four years to complete our overall design. We changed things little by little to cause the least disruption to our guests, and the results are something we’re all very excited about."

On initial inspection, the biggest difference is the removal of the all-pervading central buffet station.

"We removed it entirely from the centre of the room because we didn’t want it to be the first thing people noticed," said Wildflower assistant manager, Stephanie Packwood. "Dining tastes have shifted and we want to be a truly fine dining atmosphere, so that was the first thing that had to go."

Next up, you’ll notice the cherry wood cocktail bar where an apres perfect "pull up a pew" casual code of behaviour is warmly encouraged.

Follow your sight line along the left hand wall and you’ll come to a larger than life floor-to-ceiling mural of the majestic mountains all around. Look up at the ceiling and you’ll see an abundance of eye-catching chandeliers that look slightly Northwest native in design, with a green alpine forest acrylic trim. Both these unusual additions were created by Salt Spring Island artist, Lore Schmidt.

The room feels formal, yet comfortable – a feat not many fine dining denizens seem to be able to perfect.

"The lighting has a lot to do with that," said Packwood. "Before the renovations the restaurant was so bright so you could see the buffet, but we’ve toned it right down to give each table its own warm and intimate touch."

The large windows looking up at Blackcomb sensibly remain in tact – as does the upper level dining section, perfect for business meetings and larger groups. The huge Welsh river rock fireplace at the back is still a sight to behold (even in the middle of summer). But it’s the two-storey-high, cherry wood, climate controlled, fully stocked wine cabinets that really steal the show.

The international wine industry’s influential magazine, Wine Spectator, must have noticed too because they gave the Wildflower the prestigious Best of Award of Excellence for 2003. What this means in layman’s terms is that the vintage depth, the superior presentation and the wide choice featuring many of the world’s top producers makes the Wildflower’s grape offerings one of the "most outstanding wine lists in the world". More than 5,000 restaurants world-wide applied for the hallowed title and less than 500 made the final cut.

Packwood attributes the wine list’s "something for everyone" mantra in snaring the award.

"We wanted it to be an approachable wine list featuring something for every taste and budget. We have a lot of Canadian wines and also labels from around the world that complement our cuisine."

Moving on to the menu, the Wildflower focuses on regional Northwest accents. Fresh wild seafood and big game items make the top of their list.

"Our signature dish would have to be our broiled top sirloin of Saltspring lamb served with potato gnocchi, goat cheese and artichoke hearts in a port sauce. The broiled venison chop comes a close second, served with local mushrooms, asparagus and a rooftop herb sauce," said Heaney.

If that doesn’t get your taste buds turning somersaults on your tongue, the seafood selection sure will. Each day the chefs prepare the chosen catch of the day a totally different way.

"The idea is really gaining in popularity with our clientele," said Packwood. "Recently I had a guest come in for lunch five days out of his seven day stay. He just couldn’t wait to try the new creations and he was just fascinated with how they were all prepared."

Let’s head out to the back of the house, and the kitchen has been undergoing some subtle changes too. Chef de Cuisine for the past 18 months, Shane Robilliard, is moving across the hotel to become In Room Dining Manager. The legacy he leaves at the Wildflower however, is one he’s extremely proud of.

"I truly think we offer the best cuisine in the village. The attention to detail that myself and the staff pay to our sauces and seasonings is unsurpassable."

You’d think that’s a high standard to maintain for Robilliard’s replacement, but the incoming Tom Hewertson is more than ready for the task. Not only does he slide into the high ranking role from his previous post as the Chateau’s Banquets Chef, he brings a wealth of experience from time spent in some of the best restaurants in North America. The Fairmont San Francisco, the Fairmont Palliser in Calgary, the Rim Rock in Banff and the top cruise ships with Holland America all contribute to his extensive knowledge and experience.

"I’m pretty excited about the opportunity actually," said Hewertson, sitting next to his good friend and predecessor Robilliard. "I mean Shane has done an unbelievable job and really brought in some great changes, but a new face can mean new growth and that’s what I hope I can give. With my strong background in Canadian cuisine, I want to add to the current true Canadian feel."

The Wildflower is located inside the Fairmont Chateau Whistler at 4599 Chateau Boulevard, in the upper village. The restaurant is open for breakfast, brunch and dinner every day, with the private wine room seating up to 20 people. Sunday’s legendary brunch buffet remains from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. for $36 per person, as does Tuesday’s seafood buffet from 6 p.m. for $48 per person. Phone 604-938-8000 for reservations.

HOW TO DO CHOCOLOATE FONDUE

We managed to snag the recipe for one of the Wildflower’s most decadent delicacies, their chocolate fondue for two:

2 cups of chocolate

4 cups of fresh cream

1/2 a cup of Baileys Irish Cream liquor

Bring the cream to a boil and slowly add the chocolate. Ensure all the chocolate is melted all the way through, then pour in the Baileys. Serve with delicious fresh seasonal fruits and enjoy for hours.

Packwood’s additional tip: "When guests come here, it’s the most romantic thing they can order and it pairs perfectly with some of Canada’s fabulous ice wines or a pinot noir."