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Happiness is… Sachi Sushi

The new kid on the Japanese chopping block survives first six weeks

When Sachi Sushi declared their menu "Japanese with a North American accent", they weren’t lying.

For starters, their menu features Japanese delights mixed with local Canadian produce, from wild salmon to farm fresh asparagus. The juicy tropical mango pieces aren’t quite Canadian.

But more interestingly, the two owner-operators personify their menu to the max, thanks to their upbringing. Dean Mawson who runs the front end of the business, is Canadian born and bred, with more than 10 years living on the west coast. His business partner, Tokyo born and bred head chef Toshiyuki Kobayashi, has been living in the Canadian west for nearly 20 years.

The two transplants ended up meeting in the hallowed halls of Sushi Village, often considered the flagship sushi restaurant in Whistler.

Kobayashi, known locally as "Koba", reigned as Head Chef for Sushi Village on and off for more than 10 years. He was lured to Whistler in 1986 by friends who knew his work in Vancouver’s Kamei restaurant contributed to making it one of the best in the country. Once in Whistler, he prepared the Village’s famous sushi sensations until 1989, when he decided to return to his native Japan. Koba, however, missed his two favourite hobbies – golfing and fishing – and made the trek back to Whistler and the restaurant he knew again in 1995.

It was then that Koba met Mawson, who had been managing Sushi Village for several years in his absence, and the two became firm friends thanks to a mutual appreciation for fine cuisine, fairways and fishing rods.

Talk soon turned to the possibility of opening a place of their own but the rents were too high for them to seriously consider it. Mawson left Sushi Village to manage Casa Tapas and Wine Bar and their dream idea was put on the back burner.

As good fortune for them would have it though, Kaiten Sushi gave up their site in the Summit Lodge on Main Street and after sitting vacant for a long time, the rent eventually came down. Koba and Mawson sprung into action and Sachi Sushi was born.

"Sachi means happiness in Japanese," smiled Mawson. "And it’s also the name of Koba’s son."

The recognition of family has been instrumental to the early success of the busy Sachi restaurant, now in its sixth week of operation. Mawson’s wife, Layna from Frugal Finishings, oversaw the design of the new store, making it a Feng Shui place to be. From a stone water fountain that greets you at the entrance to a sky blue and earthy ochre colour scheme, the room feels family-friendly. There’s several large booths for groups at the back and the sushi bar was completely rebuilt to allow easier access to the chefs at work, including a low counter to allow conversation with them.

The friendship between Mawson and Koba also adds to the personal touch, with many people coming to see some faces they’ve come to know.

"Koba and I have been in town a long time so sushi lovers have come to know us," Mawson says. "They say they like seeing the two of us together because they know what we’re capable of. It’s a great feeling to have that kind of confidence from the public so early on in a business."

Koba agreed. "I did so many years working for other people that it was enough. I was ready to go out on my own, so it’s good to see familiar faces in here supporting us and giving us a chance."

With several sushi restaurants already well established in Whistler, some might suggest another Japanese restaurant is the last thing the town needs.

But both Mawson and Koba say they are doing better than expected. Lunches are busy thanks to the local business trade and dinners are fairly steady after 7:30 p.m., when people get tired of the sun.

"If it was raining or cold I’m sure we’d be busier earlier rather than all at once later at night, but we’re not complaining either way, it’s just good to see people eager to check us out," said Mawson.

"I think we’re different from all the others anyway. The atmosphere here is a lot more casual and the friendliness of the staff is probably out biggest asset. All our sushi chefs love to chat about what they’re doing compared to many other Japanese restaurants where you’ll find quite the opposite."

Koba is the friendliest sushi chef I’ve personally encountered. Full of smiles, he was quick to point out his dream vision for the restaurant.

"I just want lots of locals who come back again and again for the good food and good friends. I want it to feel like a family and so far it’s going that way and I’m very happy. Except for my golf handicap, which has gone down since I started. It used to be a 5 but now it’s probably 18," he joked.

Next thing you know he’s whipping up a frenzy in the sushi bar, sharing the secrets of Sachi Sushi’s best selling bites with me.

The delectable mango roll is wrapped in a bright yellow soy bean sheet, instead of the dark green seaweed, and filled with a special sauce, asparagus tempura, tuna, salmon and mango chunks. The Sachi roll is also wrapped in a soy bean sheet filled with salmon, scallop, avocado and shrimp tempura, and it tastes like heaven.

Their hot dishes, despite the weather, are also proving popular.

"The individual hot pots are a bit of a hit," said Mawson. "You can get a meat or seafood fondue where the spicy stock dipping is done for you. People like sharing them as an appetizer."

On the grill side of things, the sable fish is sitting at No. 1.

"We marinate it in a Saikyo miso paste and it just melts in your mouth," said Mawson.

The wine list is limited but all meet the B.C. VQA standard. "It means we only sell high end wines that meet a quality standard from vineyards. We don’t sell wine that ships in inferior grapes from cheaper regions to save on costs."

A good selection of cold sakes and imported beers, liquors and spirits is also available.

Price wise, you could say Sachi Sushi sits somewhere between Sushi Village and Sushi Ya, and well worth the visit for their exciting, modern menu.

The restaurant is open seven days a week from 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. for dinner, with lunch available Tuesday to Saturday only from noon to 2:30 p.m. For reservations or to book the tatami room, call 604-935-5649.