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A meeting of Nations

Maori and Cowichan First Nations explore winemaking notes at Araxi’s

Well it is not every day that one is a manuhiri of a hakari among kaumatua, especially at Araxi restaurant. The kai was ka pai. That is to say, it is not every day that one is a guest at a feast among elders, and, not surprisingly for Araxi restaurant, the food was excellent.

However, it was not only the food that brought a group of elders and their guests together last week, but more importantly, the wine. James Wheeler, director of Tohu wines, invited members of the Quw’utsun’ (Cowichan) First Nation of Vancouver Island and the Lil’wet’ul First Nation of Mount Currie to share in the B.C. launching of his New Zealand wines.

Tohu wines are unique in that the vineyard is entirely Maori owned. Maori are the indigenous people of New Zealand. The warm and welcoming atmosphere of Araxi’s served as a perfect backdrop for the meeting and exchange of trade knowledge between the international First Nations.

In his opening remarks at the winemaker’s dinner, Mr. Wheeler outlined the objective of Tohu wines, jointly owned by Wakatu Incorporation, Ngati Rarua Atiawa Iwi Trust and Wi Pere Trust, which is: "to export our culture in the right way". The three partners have several other investments, including the production of kiwi fruit, pears and apples, the export of crayfish and green shell mussels, deer and sheep farming as well as forestry. But none of these businesses were "good enough for promoting the Maori" culture.

Taking advantage of their geographic placement, smack dab in the middle of New Zealand’s premier wine growing regions, Gisborne and Marlborough, Tohu wines became the first indigenous branded wine to be produced for the export market. The labels on the bottles tell the story of the Maori people.

The wines themselves follow the success story that other New Zealand wines have practised. In their first year of distribution, 1998, they sold 3,000 cases. In 2002 that number had steadily climbed to 28,000 cases, and they project 120,000 cases by 2007. If the numbers don’t convince you, tasting the wines will, they are ka pai (excellent).

This meeting of Nations, which may become a formal relationship, was the result of a fortuitous encounter on the streets of Victoria. Ron Rice, Project Co-coordinator for the Quw’utsun’ Vineyard Project (QVP), bumped into a Maori friend that he had worked with at the 1997 North American Indigenous Games. In the few minutes catching up on news, Mr. Rice mentioned his main project, an economic development initiative of the Khowutzun Development Corporation to incorporate QVP, acquire existing vineyards and start First Nations owner-operator vineyards. In the future, QVP hopes to expand their product into the export market.

Mr. Rice asked if his friend knew if there were any Maori participants in the wine industry. He did. Soon after this encounter, Mr. Rice found himself attending an invitation-only wine tasting hosted by the New Zealand Consulate General in Vancouver, where he was introduced to James Wheeler. Mr. Wheeler invited Mr. Rice and members of the Cowichan Band to attend the winemaker’s dinner at Araxi restaurant. Mr. Rice invited Chief Leonard Andrew of the Mount Currie Band to welcome them to Lil’ wet’ul territory.

First Nations observe certain protocols and traditions when meeting and coming together. The dinner at Araxi began by following these traditions. Chief Andrew stood and in a gentle, soft spoken voice, welcomed us to his territory. Cowichan Acting Chief, Philomena Alphonse, stood and in a low, melodious voice thanked him for his welcome and elaborated on the customs of her people.

It is tradition to share a meal with whoever comes to our door and as the First Nations are oral in their traditions it is custom to call a witness for memory of the event. Chief Andrew’s daughter, Christine, was the witness. Acting Chief Alphonse continued, "Friends in every walk of life (should) get together and know one another for the sake of our children." She explained that when the Pacific Coast First Nations arrive in another chief’s territory it is important to welcome in good faith. She also welcomed others to her territory and extended an invitation to visit Cowichan. She finished by saying that, "It is time to better our communities" and to "use (our) territory in every way we can in (the) business world."

The Maori greeting and welcome acknowledged the people of this place, the territory and its chiefs, its sacred places, its business people and all people. The address was conducted in Maori, a flowing, poetic language. There was an invitation to break bread together. This was followed by a haka, a very loud, frightening war dance/chant which Mr. Wheeler explained was a mark of respect. These greetings were followed by an exchange of gifts between the three First Nations.

Despite their differences in outward projection, there are similarities between the Quw’utsun’First Nations and Mr. Wheeler’s iwi (tribe). Their populations are almost equivalent, 3,700 and 3,000 respectively. They are both ocean travellers and people who rely on the bounty of the oceans and rivers for food, and both groups have a history in agriculture. Their people are highly skilled artists, carvings in jade and wood are sophisticated and technically advanced. If both groups decide to formalize their relationship, their experiences with First Nations development initiatives complement each other nicely. The Cowichan First Nation has had success in the tourism industry and owns a wood joinery. The Maori that comprise Tohu wines are in the proposal stages of opening a hotel and would like to expand their forestry business into value added wood products. They will offer their vineyard experience and export advice where the Cowichan can offer their assistance with tourism and other business initiatives. Perhaps there will even be an exchange of knowledge through an apprenticeship program. It is an exciting debut for both nations.

Mr. Wheeler and Mr. Rice also share Araxi as their favourite Whistler restaurant. The winemaker’s dinner was a true feast prepared by executive chef, Scott Kidd, which complemented Tohu wines beautifully. The five course meal, in true wine-tasting style, followed from the lighter bodied to the heavier bodied Tohu wines. The highlight of the meal, for me, was the third course, sake-marinated Queen Charlotte sablefish with pine mushrooms and Pemberton peaches and cream corn with a sea urchin emulsion. This went so fantastically with the Gisborne Reserve Chardonnay 2002 the marriage between flavour and texture will stick in my mind forever. The corn, at its peak, was sweet and fresh and it drew out the rich, buttery, apricot flavour of the wine. I don’t know if it was a "cheeky" part of the plate, but three bits of buttery popped corn served as a garnish. I know there were only three bits because I wished there had been more – the popped corn and the wine were a match made in heaven.

Araxi will soon be opening a new oyster bar in addition to their regular lounge. Andre Thomas, restaurant director, encourages locals to enjoy the casual atmosphere of the bar as well as the restaurant. What better way to sample Tohu’s Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, a crisp wine with tangy acidity and the aroma of freshly mowed hay, with a half dozen (or dozen), freshly shucked, oysters. The acidity of the wine should bring out the salty sea-sweetness of the shellfish.

Araxi restaurant often hosts special events and winemaker’s dinners to get people out and enjoying (really) good food. During this year’s Cornucopia in November, the restaurant is hosting a rock-star-like cast of chefs creating a feast to feature the wines of Robert Mondavi and Rosemount Estate. Demand for tickets will be high and the event will sell out fast. Tickets are priced at $225 and are available from Tourism Whistler by calling 604-938-2769 or online at www.myWHISTLER.com/cornucopia.