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A family-food affair

Chinese New Year a time of thanksgiving, reunion and renewal

Strong, reliable, stubborn are just a few traits of my Chinese astrological sign, and, I grudgingly agree, my own personality. I am an Ox. The Lunar Chinese New Year or Ying Li Shing Nian , the most popular of Chinese festivals, generally falls between the end of January and the beginning of February. There are 12 animal signs of the Chinese horoscope and because it follows a lunar cycle, the dates that animal signs encompass change annually.

This year, Jan. 22nd, marks the beginning of the Year of the Monkey and the 4702nd year of the Chinese calendar. People born under the sign of the Monkey are said to be active, intelligent and quick-tempered. New Year’s Eve and New Year’s day are a time of thanksgiving, reunion and renewal. It is celebrated as a family affair, traditionally honouring the gods of the household and family ancestors; it unites the living members of the family with those who have passed away.

Holiday preparations for the festival are begun far in advance of the new year as there is a lot of work to be done. New clothes are ordered and bought, the house must be swept meticulously and in such a fashion that no member of the family is swept away or that good luck is lost. On New Year’s Eve all brooms, dusters or other cleaning equipment is put away to prevent good fortune from being swept away. Most of the cooking preparations will have been completed in advance as well, not only so that everyone may relax during the holiday, but also to ensure that no knives, cleavers or other "unlucky" sharp objects need be used as these instruments may cut off or divide good luck.

The first morning of the Lunar New Year, the fizzle and pop of firecrackers chase away any lingering evil spirits. Greetings such as Gung Shi Fa Tsai, meaning "Congratulations! May you become rich;" or Do Eu Do Shou, meaning "May you be blessed with happiness and long life", are exchanged. Children are given spending money wrapped in red envelopes; the colour red symbolizes life and happiness.

Food is central to the New Year’s festivities and, following holiday superstitions, nearly every ingredient, the way that it is cooked and the way the final dish is served, is loaded with meaning and symbolism. Weilu, meaning "surrounding the stove", is the communal feast celebrated on New Year’s Eve that is shared with the ancestors and symbolizes family unity.

Often eight, 10 or 12 courses make up the feast as multiples of two represent double happiness and fortune. Although each family will have its own traditional dishes for the New Year, most will include a whole fish. Fish symbolizes togetherness and abundance. In addition, the sound of "yue", or fish, means "more than enough" when written as a character. It is very important that the family does not eat the whole fish; leaving a little bit behind means that the family will always have more than enough. It is imperative that the fish not be broken during or after cooking to ensure that the family receives good fortune.

Whole or unbroken ingredients make up a large portion of the many New Year dishes. Leafy greens are not chopped and noodles, symbolizing long life, are uncut (if cut it portends a shortening of life span). Chickens, presented whole, complete with feet, head and tail, are a symbol of unity and prosperity. Happiness and liveliness are represented by whole prawns while boiled dumplings, another common festival food, are the embodiment of family unity and intactness. Even lettuce takes on auspicious meaning as its name, "sang choi", sounds like the word meaning "to bring about wealth and riches."

Many Lunar New Year dishes require precise methods of preparation and particular ingredients that are difficult to get outside Asian grocery stores, not to mention a talented and practised hand. The following recipe is an example of a simpler, quick to prepare, good omen dish. It comes from the January 1999 issue of Food & Wine magazine. Make sure that you keep the long noodles from breaking! A good follow up to these noodles are tangerines, which in Cantonese sounds like the word for gold.

Longevity Noodles

If you are unable to get fresh water chestnuts, substitute one quarter of a peeled jicama, thinly sliced.

• 2 litres water

• 2 cups mung bean or soybean sprouts

• one and a half teaspoons salt

• half a pound fresh Chinese egg noodles

• quarter cup chicken stock or canned low sodium chicken broth

• 1 tablespoon plus half teaspoon light soy sauce

• half teaspoon Asian sesame oil

• 1 tablespoon peanut oil

• one quarter inch thick slice of fresh ginger, lightly smashed

• quarter pound snow peas

• 3 large fresh water chestnuts, peeled and sliced one eighth of an inch thick

1. Bring the water to a boil in a large saucepan. Put the bean sprouts in a strainer, lower it into the boiling water and blanch the bean sprouts for 10 seconds. Remove the strainer and rinse the sprouts in cold water; drain well.

2. Add the salt to the water in the saucepan and bring it back to a boil. Add the noodles and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Drain the noodles thoroughly in a colander and rinse them in cold water; drain. Rinse again then drain, lifting them to separate and dry the strands.

3. In a small bowl combine the chicken stock with the soy sauce and sesame oil to make the sauce.

4. Warm a wok over high heat for 45 seconds. Add the peanut oil and swirl to coat the wok. Stir in the ginger and cook for 10 seconds. Add the snow peas and stir fry until bright green, about 1 minute. Add the water chestnuts and stir-fry for 30 seconds. Add the bean sprouts and stir-fry for 1 minute.

5. Stir the sauce, add it to the wok and bring to a boil. Add the noodles and stir-fry until they absorb the sauce, about one and a half minutes. Transfer the noodles to a platter and serve at once.