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On the farm

Brothers filling an agricultural void in one of B.C.’s fastest growing communities
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Stefan (left) and Nic turning the compost that will fertilize the crops

Quietly residing in the next valley over from the tourism-driven Whistler valley that brought them here for skiing, two brothers originally hailing from Montreal have now begun focusing on something entirely different.

On the Glacier Valley Farm, at mile 16.5 in the unspoiled upper Squamish Valley, Stefan Butler convinced his brother Nic to join an experiment last summer which they would describe as organized chaos: diving head first into the agricultural industry. Overnight the brothers became farmers. Stefan and Nic’s backgrounds as a carpenter and a ski/rafting guide, respectively, offered little help as they began their new escapade.

The farm was started originally as a means of growing their own produce, but it became immediately clear that there was a huge pent up demand for organically grown local produce in the Squamish area. Being the first and only organic farmers at the Squamish farmers’ market, they soon began to realize how big the demand was and started taking on clients, offering a weekly box service of seasonal veggies to several households in the Squamish and Brackendale area. As the summer progressed a handful of coffee and sandwich shops also began using their lettuces and cucumbers in their daily culinary creations.

Working with 1.5 acres last summer, the brothers hope to double their acreage this year and increase their bounty of products, offering several varieties of tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, lettuce, spinach, Swiss chard, carrots, potatoes, beets, radishes, zucchini, cucumbers, pumpkins, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, brussels sprouts, beans, onions, herbs and even farm fresh eggs.

As this year’s abundant snowfall is finally in the last stage of disappearing from the valley floor the brothers are busy propagating many of their crops, turning compost piles, setting up their new 2,100 square foot greenhouse, preparing additional acreage, harvesting eggs and booking in this summer’s veggie box clients.

Demand for locally grown foods in the Sea to Sky corridor has never been higher. While Pemberton has its offering of farms it seems that Stefan and Nic have found their niche down in Squamish and are filling a void in one of the fasting growing communities in B.C.

It is said that in North America the average meal travels over 3,000 km from farm to dinner table, and that transporting one shipment of food in an 18-wheeler will produce five tonnes of greenhouse gas emissions — which is equivalent to the total annual emissions produced by your average Canadian citizen.

Then there’s explosive growth in the price of food staples like wheat, corn and rice in the last year and a half that has led to severe food shortages and violence in some parts of the world. The International Monetary Fund announced last weekend that the global food crisis has surpassed the global economy as the top priority.

As more of these facts come to light an increasing number of consumers put more thought into where their food is produced and how it gets to the table. Over the years the vast majority of our population has completely lost connection with the very staples of our existence.

I took a drive down to the slower paced upper Squamish Valley and its views of the dominant Tantalus Range to visit Stephan and Nic and check out the farm. Pulling into the Glacier Valley Farm, Nic led a tour around their portion of the 50-acre property, introducing me to the livestock, including 100 chickens, several lamb, two inquisitive lamas and, of course, several playful farm dogs and cats.

Pique: Looking back a couple of years would you have ever imagined that you would become farmers?

Stefan: Not at all. Two years ago all I had going was a small vegetable garden in Brackendale. But it was enough to get me hooked. Now I can't get enough of it.

Nic: I had been working up the Squamish Valley as a rafting guide since 1995, and fell in love with it. I was just looking for an excuse to move up there, but farming was not the plan.

Pique: Last summer must have been quite the crash course in agriculture. With no previous farming background, what were the biggest challenges in getting Good Time Farming up and running?

Stefan: It was definitely a guessing game at times, and we were often learning things the hard way. The biggest problem is the lack of farmers in this valley. In Pemberton there's an established farming community, a support network and a knowledge base that farmers can work with. In the Squamish Valley there are only a handful of home gardeners — that, mind you, are very good at what they do, and have been very helpful.

We've been greatly blessed with all the support that Glacier Valley Farm has provided. Their involvement with the animals and livestock has provided a vital component towards a sustainable and healthy farm, providing manure for our compost which is the base for a rich and healthy growing soil.

There are so many different components that make a farm work, and unfortunately with very little staff it felt like we had to learn everything, from growing vegetables to fixing the tractor, buying and building a greenhouse and marketing our product, etc, etc...

Pique: Looking after the farm must require a lot of labour and hands in the field, how many people had a hand in maintaining and harvesting the crops over the summer?

Nic: Not enough. Glacier Valley Farm has been extremely helpful in every aspect. While they don't have a lot of time to directly help us with the growing side, their time spent with the animals and maintaining the infrastructure is vital.

Thankfully we had two wonderful women (Jesse and Amy) that always gave us a hand with harvest and market days and were always around to help. I greatly respect what they've done, especially considering that all their time was volunteered.

We, of course, had the odd friend come by to help out, and we greatly appreciate everyone’s hard work. But labour remains a problem, and with a small budget, you end up doing most of it yourself. Our current monetary system doesn’t support small scale, local organic farming, and therefore, we cannot survive without people willing to merely work for vegetables and for the pure sake of supporting a healthy agricultural system.

Pique: What has been the inspiration or driving force behind making Good Time Farming the growing success it is today?

Stefan: Well, first off, we aren't quite a success yet, and we have a long road ahead.

In terms of inspiration, well, have you been to the grocery store lately? Buying good food these days is hard, and the more I learn about where my food comes from and how it is grown to how it tastes, the more I just want to grow it all myself. Our food system is heading in the wrong direction. Unlike the green revolution that foresees increased production as a solution to feeding our growing population I would rather see an increase in the quality of our food. The subsequent increase in the nutritional value of what we grow wouldn't require us to eat as much as we do. I guess I just like good quality food.

Nic: I like good food. Especially good local food. Two years ago I had no clue where my food came from. I figured an organic vegetable was an organic vegetable. But when you consider that the average vegetable travels 3,000 km to get to you, whether it's organic or not... well that scares me! I guess the more you read into it the more you just want to know exactly were your food is coming from.

Pique: Given the strong demand for your produce would you say that the average person is finally beginning to truly think about where their food comes from and how they eat?

Stefan: I definitely believe that more people are starting to become aware of the food they eat, and where it comes from, but we are still way behind other parts of the world. On average, North Americans eat very poorly. In a society addicted to material goods and money, most people have forgotten the value of local food that is grown and produced with quality in mind. Most people would rather buy the cheaper California version.

However, you pay for what you get, and like all the material goods that we buy, if you want quality that you can trust and that will treat you well, you have to pay for it.

Nevertheless, I do greatly appreciate and respect all the people that do support us and other local growers and producers alike, and that understand the value of good food — and I do believe that more and more people will follow.

Nic: People are thinking about it, but the price scares them away when they can buy something that looks similar for a third the price. It all comes down to choices, and some choices cost more than others.

Pique: What will be the biggest changes for this year and what are your aspirations for summer 2008?

Stefan: The biggest change will be the asset of having the knowledge we gained from last summer and an increase in resources and infrastructure. Our aspirations are just to grow the best vegetables possible and to make a living doing so.

Pique: The greenhouse sounds like a serious addition to your capabilities, how will that affect the variety and length of season for the products that you offer?

Nic: The greenhouse was always essential and will certainly extend our growing season and increase the quality of some of our crops. The problem is, once you begin acquiring greenhouse space you always want more.

Pique: Can you offer some insight for those who wish to grow their own vegetables or who wish to start into the farming business?

Stefan: I hope that one day everybody will grow some of their own food, and that neighbourhoods will become small farming communities that share their crops and seeds. Growing some of your own vegetables isn't that hard, and it's an extremely healthy thing to do.

In terms of entering the farming business though, it's a tremendous amount of work and sacrifice for the monetary return. The lifestyle, the food and the peace of mind is priceless. I'm essentially begging for competitors, because it’s lonely up here in the valley.

Nic: It may seem overwhelming at first, but once you commit and get into it, it's one of the most rewarding things you'll ever do.

Eggs and fresh produce from Good Time Farming will be available at the Squamish farmers’ market, which opens for the season on May 3. Squamish and Brackendale residents are also encouraged to book their veggie boxes for the summer as the service will be limited to 50 customers.



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