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Practising sustainability in the hills of India

A B&B feeds on friendship, tourism and locally-grown food
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Corkers Walk is a steep ridge path on the south-eastern side of Kokaikanal, a resort town in southern India in which taxi drivers and residents alike greeted the author with cheery hellos. Photo by Janet Love Morrison

By Janet Love Morrison

South India; approximately 120 kilometres north of Maduria, situated in the Palini Hills, is the resort town of Kodaikanal. At an elevation of 2,133 metres, this quaint hill station is a favourite travel destination for both foreigners and Indian nationals, particularly honeymooners and college graduating students.

Kodaikanal was the only hill station during the British Raj to be founded by the Americans. It all began at the turn of the last century as missionaries sought a break from the oppressive heat of the plains.

Anxious to get out of the heat, I travelled up the ghat road to spend a few days in the cooler temperatures myself. A wide variety of accommodation exists in Kodai: flash hotels, budget hotels, and hostels. However, I opted to stay at Cinnabar, a unique bed and breakfast recommended to me by friends. Located just outside of the hustle and bustle of town, Cinnabar is owned and operated by K. Balakrishnan and his wife Vasu. Cinnabar’s tagline is: Where you feel like a friend, not just a guest. I would soon discover the depth of those words.

Balakrishnan, Bala for short, welcomed me to his home and although I arrived long past the breakfast hour, he asked, “Are you hungry?”

“Famished,” I answered honestly. I’m not shy about food, for let’s face it, food is one of the joys of travelling.

Within a few minutes I was served hot steamy coffee and homemade granola, followed by fluffy scrambled eggs and homemade bread — a true culinary delight.

We exchanged the generic pleasantries over a second cup of coffee; where are you from? What do you do? And it was here that I learned Bala obtained a bachelors degree in engineering from the University of Madras and a master’s degree in computer science from the University of Pittsburgh.

Over the years, while Bala laboured in a life of computing, he took time off to travel with his family to the far corners of the world, pursuing hobbies that have always fascinated him. Then, a few years ago he made the choice to exchange office life for what he truly loves to do; farming and living off the land.

I was so taken by the taste of the coffee I asked Bala what brand he brewed. He smiled and announced, “I grow my own!”

I was in complete and utter disbelief. Never had I drank a home-grown, home brewed coffee. Then, once I finished my caffeine-infused succulent flavour bursting coffee, Bala suggested a tour of the yard to show me the ripened coffee bushes.

Wandering through the garden, followed around by Hero and Cookie, the two resident dogs, I was completely dumbfounded at the variety of produce grown on the premises: lettuce, beans, peas, tomatoes, peppers, broccoli, cauliflower, potatoes, carrots and more. As we strolled through the paths, Bala explained to me that everything was grown using organic practices: composting, mulching, crop rotation and pest management. Then to my surprise, I noticed avocado, plum, pear and peach trees.

Bala then mentioned that virtually everything served up to the table was homemade. Never mind the 100 Mile Diet, this was the 100 Metre Diet.

My stomach liked what it was hearing. I couldn’t wait for supper, though that was hours away, so I chose to get my local bearings and explore.

Back in town I noticed several students loitering around a bakery, so I calculated that the goods must be yummy. I bought a tea, sat down, and it wasn’t long before I was chatting with a couple of locals who suggested a couple of must do activities in Kodai: hike down to Dolphin’s Nose, a local viewpoint with a stunning view of the plains below; rent a bicycle and peddle around the lake; a walk through Bryant Park to enjoy the local flora; or if I was feeling up to it, play a round of golf at the Kodaikanal Golf Club located a few kilometres out of town.

Not being much of a golfer, I opted for the flowers of Bryant Park and the view from Coaker’s Walk.

On my way to the park, shop vendors called out, “Vannakahm, hello!” as did all the taxi drivers. Along the way I passed the Tibetan market where I picked up a colourful, locally-made wool shawl, as I anticipated a chilly evening ahead. I also noticed eucalyptus and wattle trees growing in abundance, and it seemed almost every shop was selling eucalyptus oil with a long list of all its medicinal values.

After a gentle stroll through vibrant Bryant Park, and negotiating the hawkers along the way, I walked the short distance up to Coaker’s Walk. Coaker’s Walk is a path along a steep ridge on the south-eastern side of town. The commanding view to the plains below left me in awe. It was late afternoon and the light was a photographer’s dream, the air was clear from recent rains, leaving the view clear and crisp.

After spending the afternoon on my feet, I headed back to Cinnabar to discover that homemade pasta and sun-dried tomatoes were on the evening menu. But before dining, I relaxed and enjoyed the sanctuary of my peaceful room. It was one of those rooms where sleep would come naturally. I could have happily spent a couple of days just chilling out at Cinnabar, enjoying the cosy, rustic toned room, reading on the veranda and wandering around the garden. Another time, another trip, I thought to myself.

After my little time out, I stepped into the warmth of the house and appetizers covered the table. I immediately sampled the cheese. Bala heard me come in and as he emerged from the aroma-filled kitchen he smiled and said, “I see you’ve tried the cheese.”

“Yes,” I muttered, reaching for some more. “This is incredible. Where on earth can you find Stilton cheese in Kodai?”

“Right here,” he replied. “I make it myself.”

I should have known. He then told me how he became an artisan cheese maker.

Nearby, Bala has a seven-acre farm where he keeps his cows. Every day milk is converted into a variety of hard, soft or mould-ripened cheeses. After pasteurization, appropriate culture and rennet is used to set the milk and then by the end of each day the curds are put into a press to drain. On average, the cheese is aged for two months before it is served. House specials include Montasio, an Italian style cheese; Colby an American style cheddar; and Cinnablue, the house signature English style Stilton.

After dinner (and after Bala demonstrated how to use his very own pasta maker from Italy) Bala and Vasu offered to help with any other arrangements I needed to make for the following day. We chatted about my plans and then I asked what compelled them to open a bed and breakfast. It all seemed rather arduous to me, people coming and going, growing, preparing and cooking food, but it was obvious Bala and Vasu thoroughly enjoyed meeting people and hosting their guests.

Vasu remarked, “I always felt that we lived a life that was eco-friendly and embraced sustainability. As time went on it was our desire to share our lifestyle with others.”

A few days later, when I went to leave, I asked Bala for some of his brochures as I wanted to pass them out to some friends and other travellers I was sure to meet. Again, I glanced at his tagline and I truly felt like I was leaving as a friend; those few words on their brochure were truly authentic.

My visit to Kodaikanal and Cinnabar was so much more than experiencing just another corner of India. Not only was I introduced to a unique lifestyle, but I witnessed that it is truly possible to create the life one chooses within your own environment. Bala and Vasu actualized their dreams of living off the land, sharing it with others, and they made it happen.

Kodaikanal; a hill station to discover. Cinnabar; a unique place to stay where they are truly tilling it naturally.

E-mail : cinnabarfarm@yahoo.com

www.geocities.com /cinnabarfarm



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