By Janet Love
Morrison
South India;
approximately 120 kilometres north of Maduria, situated in the Palini Hills, is
the resort town of Kodaikanal. At an elevation of 2,133 metres, this quaint
hill station is a favourite travel destination for both foreigners and Indian
nationals, particularly honeymooners and college graduating students.
Kodaikanal was
the only hill station during the British Raj to be founded by the Americans. It
all began at the turn of the last century as missionaries sought a break from
the oppressive heat of the plains.
Anxious to get
out of the heat, I travelled up the ghat road to spend a few days in the cooler
temperatures myself. A wide variety of accommodation exists in Kodai: flash
hotels, budget hotels, and hostels. However, I opted to stay at Cinnabar, a
unique bed and breakfast recommended to me by friends. Located just outside of
the hustle and bustle of town, Cinnabar is owned and operated by K.
Balakrishnan and his wife Vasu. Cinnabar’s tagline is:
Where you feel like a
friend, not just a guest.
I would soon discover the depth of those words.
Balakrishnan,
Bala for short, welcomed me to his home and although I arrived long past the
breakfast hour, he asked, “Are you hungry?”
“Famished,” I
answered honestly. I’m not shy about food, for let’s face it, food is one of
the joys of travelling.
Within a few
minutes I was served hot steamy coffee and homemade granola, followed by fluffy
scrambled eggs and homemade bread — a true culinary delight.
We exchanged
the generic pleasantries over a second cup of coffee; where are you from? What
do you do? And it was here that I learned Bala obtained a bachelors degree in
engineering from the University of Madras and a master’s degree in computer
science from the University of Pittsburgh.
Over the
years, while Bala laboured in a life of computing, he took time off to travel
with his family to the far corners of the world, pursuing hobbies that have
always fascinated him. Then, a few years ago he made the choice to exchange
office life for what he truly loves to do; farming and living off the land.
I was so taken
by the taste of the coffee I asked Bala what brand he brewed. He smiled and announced,
“I grow my own!”
I was in
complete and utter disbelief. Never had I drank a home-grown, home brewed
coffee. Then, once I finished my caffeine-infused succulent flavour bursting
coffee, Bala suggested a tour of the yard to show me the ripened coffee bushes.
Wandering
through the garden, followed around by Hero and Cookie, the two resident dogs,
I was completely dumbfounded at the variety of produce grown on the premises:
lettuce, beans, peas, tomatoes, peppers, broccoli, cauliflower, potatoes,
carrots and more. As we strolled through the paths, Bala explained to me that
everything was grown using organic practices: composting, mulching, crop
rotation and pest management.
Then to my
surprise, I noticed avocado, plum, pear and peach trees.
Bala then mentioned
that virtually everything served up to the table was homemade. Never mind the
100 Mile Diet, this was the 100 Metre Diet.
My stomach
liked what it was hearing. I couldn’t wait for supper, though that was hours
away, so I chose to get my local bearings and explore.
Back in town I
noticed several students loitering around a bakery, so I calculated that the
goods must be yummy. I bought a tea, sat down, and it wasn’t long before I was
chatting with a couple of locals who suggested a couple of must do activities
in Kodai: hike down to Dolphin’s Nose, a local viewpoint with a stunning view
of the plains below; rent a bicycle and peddle around the lake; a walk through
Bryant Park to enjoy the local flora; or if I was feeling up to it, play a
round of golf at the Kodaikanal Golf Club located a few kilometres out of town.
Not being much
of a golfer, I opted for the flowers of Bryant Park and the view from Coaker’s
Walk.
On my way to
the park, shop vendors called out, “Vannakahm, hello!” as did all the taxi drivers.
Along the way I passed the Tibetan market where I picked up a colourful,
locally-made wool shawl, as I anticipated a chilly evening ahead. I also
noticed eucalyptus and wattle trees growing in abundance, and it seemed almost
every shop was selling eucalyptus oil with a long list of all its medicinal
values.
After a gentle
stroll through vibrant Bryant Park, and negotiating the hawkers along the way,
I walked the short distance up to Coaker’s Walk. Coaker’s Walk is a path along
a steep ridge on the south-eastern side of town. The commanding view to the
plains below left me in awe. It was late afternoon and the light was a
photographer’s dream, the air was clear from recent rains, leaving the view
clear and crisp.
After spending
the afternoon on my feet, I headed back to Cinnabar to discover that homemade
pasta and sun-dried tomatoes were on the evening menu. But before dining, I
relaxed and enjoyed the sanctuary of my peaceful room. It was one of those
rooms where sleep would come naturally. I could have happily spent a couple of
days just chilling out at Cinnabar, enjoying the cosy, rustic toned room,
reading on the veranda and wandering around the garden. Another time, another
trip, I thought to myself.
After my
little time out, I stepped into the warmth of the house and appetizers covered
the table. I immediately sampled the cheese. Bala heard me come in and as he
emerged from the aroma-filled kitchen he smiled and said, “I see you’ve tried
the cheese.”
“Yes,” I
muttered, reaching for some more. “This is incredible. Where on earth can you
find Stilton cheese in Kodai?”
“Right here,”
he replied. “I make it myself.”
I should have
known. He then told me how he became an artisan cheese maker.
Nearby, Bala
has a seven-acre farm where he keeps his cows. Every day milk is converted into
a variety of hard, soft or mould-ripened cheeses. After pasteurization,
appropriate culture and rennet is used to set the milk and then by the end of
each day the curds are put into a press to drain. On average, the cheese is aged
for two months before it is served. House specials include Montasio, an Italian
style cheese; Colby an American style cheddar; and Cinnablue, the house
signature English style Stilton.
After dinner
(and after Bala demonstrated how to use his very own pasta maker from Italy)
Bala and Vasu offered to help with any other arrangements I needed to make for
the following day. We chatted about my plans and then I asked what compelled
them to open a bed and breakfast. It all seemed rather arduous to me, people coming
and going, growing, preparing and cooking food, but it was obvious Bala and
Vasu thoroughly enjoyed meeting people and hosting their guests.
Vasu remarked,
“I always felt that we lived a life that was eco-friendly and embraced
sustainability. As time went on it was our desire to share our lifestyle with
others.”
A few days
later, when I went to leave, I asked Bala for some of his brochures as I wanted
to pass them out to some friends and other travellers I was sure to meet.
Again, I glanced at his tagline and I truly felt like I was leaving as a
friend; those few words on their brochure were truly authentic.
My visit to
Kodaikanal and Cinnabar was so much more than experiencing just another corner
of India. Not only was I introduced to a unique lifestyle, but I witnessed that
it is truly possible to create the life one chooses within your own
environment. Bala and Vasu actualized their dreams of living off the land,
sharing it with others, and they made it happen.
Kodaikanal; a
hill station to discover. Cinnabar; a unique place to stay where they are truly
tilling it naturally.
E-mail : cinnabarfarm@yahoo.com
www.geocities.com /cinnabarfarm