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Table Scraps

Once upon a time...
nicolebyline

Once upon a time, in a land far, far away, lived a castle in the kingdom of the Upper Village. Okay maybe not castle, but a place at least where kings and queens stayed. Here at the Fairmont Chateau Whistler dwelt a new gathering place.

Rising above the dungeons of banquet spreads, a new feasting hall was celebrated. They called it, The Wine Room.

The Wine Room, you ask. What is that? My exact sentiments after reading the unfamiliar name listed among the regular dining knights of the Dine and Unwind round table. Each spring shoulder season, diners rejoice with the coming of the set-menu courtship that sweeps across Whistler from now until June 30.

Frogs become princes, or at least they can afford to feast like royalty with Whistler’s top fine dining restaurants pricing set menus that don’t require robbing the king’s coffers to pay the dinner bill.

A visit to The Wine Room will make you think you are royalty, with the three-course set menu crowned with a dessert that now haunts my dreams. (I am running through a forest, a black forest of layered mousse and Birkenhead cherries.) I am going to spoil the happily ever ending. Let’s first begin by turning to the opening chapter of our tale.

Chapter one. Finding The Wine Room.

The Wine Room is located within the Wildflower Restaurant. A library spined with wine bottles separates the two wings of the grand hall. On one side The Wine Room hosts a set menu that changes monthly, while on the other side the Wildflower Restaurant serves a more casual à la carte fare. The Wildflower menu ranges from $12 quesadillas and $34 steaks to $14 mountain burgers and $29 cioppinos. I fell in love with the latter, which originated at the Portobello, but was removed from the menu when the Portobello shifted into a casual breakfast, lunch cafe. It was like seeing an old friend when I scanned the Wildflower menu to rediscover the west-coast melting pot of prawns, scallops, salmon, halibut, clams and mussels in a tomato-basil broth.

The Wine Room leaves the decision making to the experts. Sommelier Jay Whiteley works with executive chef Michael Pagnacco to create the set menu, which includes choices under each course, as well as the option of a three-course wine pairing. Normally the set menu is $80 and wine $45, but for May and June, we all have fairy godmothers. The three-course dinner is only $35 and wine pairing a $25 addition— no glass slippers required.

While the warm, rich setting of dark wood, roaring fireplace and cozy intimate setting welcomes a special occasion, everyman clothing (i.e. blue jeans and fleece) is equally at home.

Chapter two. The trumpets sound.

Giant scallops placed on a potato-cheddar, bacon-wrapped bar with corn cream was wonderful, but when the salad came, I could hear the trumpets blaring the arrival of something grand. Even Sleeping Beauty would break out of her deep sleep for this exquisite summer escape. Peppery greens, port-marinated figs, candied pecans, ripe baby chèvre and lavender-infused white balsamic dazzled and delivered, thanks in part to a wonderful French pinot gris pairing — the refreshing citrus popped the peppery undertones of the salad mix.

Chapter three. Mirror mirror on the wall. Who is the fairest item of them all?

The roasted venison loin.

I spent the most time with this course. Alright the two previous courses and infamous Fairmont olive bread — no matter how much you tell yourself, you will never get through all three courses, you cannot pass on this traditional chewy European bread served with herb butter — might have something to do with it. There are just so many wonderful flavours and textures going on in this dish, you won’t give Bambi a second thought.

The venison was roasted brown with a firm edge making way to a tender red centre that goes down as smoothly as the Rodney Strong 2003 Zinfindel paired with it. Beans were also a star in this fairytale. Jack would be proud with string, white beans and others writing themselves in with a huckleberry jus. Sweet and savoury. Snow White and the Queen. Sleeping Beauty and Maleficent. The perfect dramatic mix.

I could have wrapped up a happy ending right here. But like all great fairytales, this one included Prince Charming, executive sous chef Michael Nemec who swept me off my feet with The Wine Room’s unique spin on the black forest cake tradition. (Worth the extra $10.)

A birthday tradition for both my dad and myself, I couldn’t say no to my childhood favourite.

The chef warned it roamed outside of the usual whipped cream fare with chocolate mousse layers. Three wishes answered — milk, dark and white chocolate mousse layered between cherry-embossed chocolate cake. This rendezvous even came with a lamp, but instead of a genie, out poured a warm cocoa sauce to turn delicious into divine.

The Wine Room clearly discovered Rumpelstiltskin’s secret. From local produce and product, from cozy seating and knowledgeable staff, from changing set menus tailored perfectly to wines and local pocketbooks, The Wine Room spins golden moments — turning fairytale into a reality to look forward to.