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The twelve days of Christmas

A dozen of the best wines from 2012
food_gismondi1

I'm a fan of tradition, especially at this time of the year. And after 12 months of travel, tastings and meetings, and tramping around vineyards, it seems appropriate to continue our tradition of producing a column of a dozen wines that not only grabbed my attention in 2012 but that you can buy at an affordable price and serve over the holidays.

I've doubled-checked each wine selected this month and at press time they're all still widely available in government stores. In some cases, you will find many of them in private wine shops, too.

This year my travels took me to Chile, Argentina, Australia, Italy, California, Niagara, Sonoma County, Napa Valley and the Okanagan Valley. As well, I met with hundreds of producers who travel regularly to Vancouver to visit the market. With all that in mind, here are 12 personal favourites to enjoy over the holidays.

On the first day of Christmas... We begin with an amazing value: the Mezzomondo Salento 2011 $10 from Puglia, Italy. Fittingly fragrant, this 100 per cent negroamaro grape is indigenous to Apulia. Its blackberries, plums and dark chocolate with a savoury undertone over deliver for the price. So round and fun to drink, it's ridiculous value for $10. I call this an extreme-value holiday party red.

The bookend white, price-wise, is an amazing value from France: Francois Lurton Les Fumées Blanches 2008 $14 from the Languedoc. Lurton always over delivers for the price and this fresh smoky, citrus mineral scented white is no exception. Balanced, refreshing and crazy value, it's sold under screw cap. You should back the truck up and load up. Seafood, anyone?

Another white made for food and entertaining is the Ogier Côtes du Rhône Heritages Blanc 2011 $17. A classic white Rhone, it offers up a floral, aromatic mix of peachy, lemon, ginger aromas flecked with almonds and chalk. The attack is fresh and juicy with more lime rind, honey, ginger, apple skin and lemon flavours. Perfect with one-bite appetizers.

Chardonnay drinkers who love the grape and not the oak should pick up some Kendall-Jackson Avant Chardonnay 2011 $20 from Monterey/Santa Barbara, California. Avant is a modern-style chardonnay with floral, butter, cream and mango notes. The attack is creamy and fresh with honey, ripe mango fruit, lemon, butter and baked apple, all with a touch of creamy lees — an impressive, fresh lean style with ripe fruit. Try this with chicken or fish before or during dinner.

Everyone is drinking pinot noir but finding a good one isn't easy. So I highly recommend Mud House Central Otago Pinot Noir $20. There is something delicious about entry-level Central Otago pinot noir and Mud House often hits the mark with its estate label. The fruit is grown at Bendigo and is gently de-stemmed, leaving a portion of whole berries that seem to deliver bright vivid fruit throughout the palate. Look for plums and dark cherries sprinkled with a savoury dried herbs finish — round and supple without too much oak showing through. Grilled chicken mains or salads would be a solid match for this terrific value New World red.

And on the sixth day of Christmas... I suggest stopping for some sparkling wine. Domaine Chandon Brut Classic N/V $24 has fun written on its creamy, juicy, nutty, toasty aromas and soft honey, earthy, strawberry, citrus and tobacco flavours. Great with popcorn if you need to whip something up quick for drop-in guests.

You should buy every 2010 Rhone you can find, but in the meantime grab some La Domeliere Rasteau Côtes du Rhône Villages 2010 $20. The mix is a blend of 70/20/10 grenache, syrah and mourvèdre, and it grabs your attention from the nose to the finish. The nose is a mix of ripe, red and dark fruit flavours with smoky spicy notes. The entry is fragrant with soft slippery black cherry and plum fruit with bits of kirsch, licorice root and some savoury, meaty notes. Try it with assorted grilled meats or cellar and drink it through 2015.

The bio-dynamic wine of the year has to be the M. Chapoutier Domaine de Bila-Haut Rouge 2010 $15 out of Roussillon. The attack is so smooth and polished but in a fresh, elegant style with more chocolate, tobacco, pepper, black cherry, licorice root and smoky, meaty flavours — and all with plenty of acidity and length. Love the value in this electric red you can pair with grilled meats and or chicken dishes.

You should always have some dessert wine on hand and chilled over the holidays. One of the best made locally is the Quails' Gate Late Harvest Totally Botrytis Affected Optima 2011 $30 (375 ml) with its fresh, crisp, juicy, elegant palate with well-balanced sweetness and acidity. Lychee, apricot, honey, ginger, spicy, lime, baked apple and lanolin flavours. Try this with liver paté before dinner or with fruity cake or desserts.

One of the best inexpensive reds coming out of Argentina is Altos Los Hormigas Clasico Malbec 2011 $16. The 2011 follows on an excellent 2010, once again offering a fragrant mix of red and black fruit flavours flecked with smoky dried herbs notes. The textures are ultra-silky; the style Euro-classy. Serve throughout the holidays wherever red wine is required. Great value.

A falling Euro has brought Italy back into the game and a wine to look for is the Sette Ponti Crognolo 2009 $33 from Tuscany. This mini super-Tuscan blend is 85 per cent sangiovese and 15 per cent merlot and cabernet sauvignon aged for 12 to 18 months in French Allier barriques and six months in the bottle before release. The '09 is a rich delicious, red and black fruit offering with freshness and acidity. Expect complexity with soft, polished tannins in the finish. You can easily cellar this for five years or serve it now with rich, warm winter stews and roasts.

And on the twelfth day of Christmas... We conclude with a delicious pinot noir to satisfy the ever-growing demand for this variety — La Crema Pinot Noir 2009 $29 from Sonoma Coast, California. Look for a smoky cherry, celery, carrot top aroma. The attack is supple, the palate juicy with smoky vanilla, strawberry jam, barnyard and compost flavours with a chocolaty finish. Duck, turkey, chicken, and veal — it will all work.

Have a wonderful, responsible holiday — do not drink and drive!

Anthony Gismondi is a globetrotting wine writer who makes his home in West Vancouver, British Columbia. For more of his thoughts on wine log onto www.gismondionwine.com.