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Time to party — Spanish style

Tapas and wines from the New Spain will be popular for a long time

Spain is the current darling of the international food and wine stage and as the anti-globalization forces gather strength to oppose the massive conglomerates that dominate world wine markets the country with culinary diversity to spare could be in for a long run as a preferred producer of both food and wine.

Anyone who has spent time travelling the back roads of the Iberian peninsula can’t help but be amazed by Spain’s ability to reinvent itself every few kilometres. It seems no matter what direction you head the food and wine changes as you travel from region to region and sometimes even from town to town.

There is perhaps no better illustration of this versatility than in the ever-changing Spanish tapa. We have only recently come to know small plates in British Columbia, albeit well ahead of most of the continent, but Spain has been making the tiny delectable taste treats for centuries.

The tradition began when Spanish bartenders placed pieces of bread atop their customers’ drinks to thwart the fruit flies. It wasn’t long before they were "spicing up" the bread with jamon and queso and the tapa (literally translated as the lid) was born.

Every corner of Spain has its specialties but it’s the local ingredients that shine. Olives, cheese, ham, tomatoes, red peppers, prawns, pork, lamb and much more.

Locals sip and bite most days in towns like Logrono, the capital of Rioja, where you can wander the old city all night jumping from one tapas bar to the next. Interestingly each boasts an ancient sign out front with a simple drawing of a prawn or a mushroom touting the flagship tapa of the bar.

Now that I have your interest, why not consider getting some friends together and holding your own tapas party. If you are too busy to prepare the tapas simply have your guests bring some suitable ingredients and let everyone build their own.

Once you’ve sorted out the food you need only grab some Spanish wines to keep the party going long into the night, Spanish style. Fortunately, B.C. liquor stores have never had a better selection of Spanish wine to choose. What follows are some of the best value labels in the market.

We begin with a number of reds made from the classic tempranillo grape. If you’re not up on tempranillo, this grape is to Spain as merlot is to California. Its soft, dark berry fruit flavours come with a streak of earth and herbal notes, and while you’ll find some stand-alone solo varietal bottlings, often it is blended with garnacha, carignan and, more recently, cabernet sauvignon.

Berberana Dragon 2002 Tempranillo ($11.90)

is your everyday red with smoky, spicy, black cherry jam aromas and similar flavours. The entry is dry soft and round, the textures lean and a bit resiny.

Interestingly Marques de Riscal has taken its Riojan tempranillo knowledge to selected vineyards within the vast Castilla y León region and the results are an impressive and inexpensive Marques de Riscal 2002 Tempranillo ($16.95) . The palate mixes fragrant, earthy, fruit tones with smoky spicy, black fruit and vanilla flavours with just a touch of heat in the finish. Grilled lamb chops will do here.

Experienced wine drinkers would associate the Osborne name with sherry but this time out it is attached to the Osborne 2003 Solaz ($12.35) a red that contains 20 per cent cabernet sauvignon for extra added punch. The blend originates in Tierra de Castilla and is a fruit forward tasty mix of grapes reminiscent of plums with a spicy earthy aftertaste.

The Rubens 2003 Tempranillo from La Mancha ($14.95) offers up spicy, black raspberry jam aromas with more smoky chocolate, prunes and black raspberry jam flavours. A grilled meat wine or a spaghetti and meatballs red that offers good value.

Another label worth checking out is the Finca Antigua 2002 Tempranillo 2002 ($16.99) a new project in La Mancha by Rioja-based Martinez-Bujanda. This is fruity tempranillo with a touch of warmth and a dusting of vanilla and spicy earth. Break out the cheese, olives and tapas and start the party.

Representing a slice of the New Spain is Panarroz Jumilla Red ($15.90) this time blending syrah/mourvèdre/grenache. The style is soft and rustic with meaty, inky, earthy, warm round black fruit jam flavours with a touch of iron and acidity. A very solid if chunky barbeque red.

Similarly new in style is the Las Rocas de San Alejandro 2003 Garnacha ($15.95) with its enticing white pepper, raspberry and gamey aromas and flavours. Plenty of fine intensity here will stand up to spicy tapas and warm winter foods.

One of the most consistent new Spanish labels is Castaño Monastrell 2004 ($14.95). Monastrell, or mourvèdre as it is known in France, seems to thrive in Yecla. Look for a round, dry, supple red with grainy tannins and plenty of black cherry, chocolate, licorice and peppery flavours. There is good value here…

Back to Jumilla, a large area in southeastern Spain, to taste Casa de la Ermita 2003 Jumilla ($18.90) . The blend is a hefty mix of mourvèdre, merlot, tempranillo, syrah and cabernet sauvignon that is not only tasty but represents more fine value.

Rosé is always in the forefront in Spain so don’t miss the very stylish Vega Sindoa 2004 Rosé ($12.90) . Look for spicy almond earthy notes and raspberry jam fruit flavours. A garnacha cabernet blend, it has a rich peppery strawberry finish. Perfect for tapas but big enough for dinner too.

Mad Dogs and Englishman 2003 Jumilla ($14.99)

may sound like an odd name for a Spanish wine but do not dismiss this shiraz/cabernet/monastrell blend. Look for a soft, savoury deliciously fruity red with just enough Euro savoir fair to have everyone running for dinner. This is killer value. Love the balance and the polite alcohol levels. Order by the case.

Finally, roaming winemaker Telmo Rodriguez remains a driving force behind the New Spain and in an attempt to breathe some life into the staid, region of Rioja he has released LZ 2003 Rioja ($18.99) . Rich and smooth LZ comes with light tannins, fine intensity of flavour and big black plum, black cherry, licorice, tobacco flavours and a touch of chocolate. Love the fruit and the value.

Okay, now it’s time to party.

Anthony Gismondi is a globetrotting wine writer who makes his home in West Vancouver, British Columbia. For more of his thoughts on wine, log onto www.gismondionwine.com