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Travel Story

Sailing the sacred Charlottes

An archaeological adventure into Haida Gwaii, a ‘place of wonder’

Shafts of morning sunshine strike the weather-beaten wood evoking 10,000 years of culture. These are the ancient totem poles of the Haida people. Seasoned by nature, they stand in stoic solitude in defiance of the passing years. Magnificent all by themselves, they also serve as a vivid reminder of the fragile balance between man and nature.

Haida Gwaii (the Queen Charlotte Islands) is among the richest biological and cultural reserves on the planet. The islands lie 240 kilometres north of Vancouver Island and 45 kilometres south of the Alaskan Panhandle. The secluded archipelago of 130 islands is home to ageless rainforests, white sand beaches and a seemingly endless variety of wildlife seldom seen anywhere else in the world. Within this mosaic is the cultural legacy of the Haida, one of the most culturally developed and complex native groups to inhabit early North America.

The Haida name for the remote southern islands is "Gwaii Haanas" which translates to "place of wonder." It is easy to see why, at least from the deck of the historic schooner Maple Leaf.

"Sheet in the jib!" calls Captain Kevin Smith, the proud owner of the sailing ship first launched from Vancouver in 1904. The boat heels gently to the wind and cuts through the ocean. Maple Leaf has skimmed the waters of Gwaii Haanas for almost two decades, allowing guests to experience the rich life of this the "Canadian Galapagos."

There's a good wind now. We should have a good sail to the old Haida village of Cumshewa on the northeast coast of Moresby Island. It's an important stop; the totems there are an excellent place to start as we begin to learn of the Haida people and their interrelationship with the land and animals.

We are sailing at a brisk 8 knots. The small group of guests can sense we are in for something special on this nine-day adventure. The first evening onboard the ship was spent in Sandspit, located on the northern tip of Moresby Island. That night, the ship’s full-time chef treated us to wild chinook salmon while the group discussed the trip's itinerary, at least up to a certain point.

"The hallmark of a Maple Leaf trip is spontaneity," says Sherry Kirkvold, the ship’s dedicated naturalist. "A close encounter with humpback whales or other wildlife inevitably alters the plans."

Haida Gwaii is one of the world's most unspoiled masterpieces because of its isolation, Kirkvold tells us. So we felt fortunate to witness this remote wilderness in the most fitting and unobtrusive manner possible – in a small yacht offering fine views and access, but leaving only footprints behind.

With a fresh spring breeze in the sails the 28-metre schooner nears the ancient village of Cumshewa and anchors in a peaceful cove for the night. After a restful sleep, we spend the next day learning first hand of the great Haida nation. We wander through the forlorn village of Cumshewa, and see clearly the struggle between man's precarious efforts to leave an imprint on this world and the inexorable forces of nature, as we bear witness to the decaying totem poles and the old house planks leaning at sobering angles.

Cumshewa is just one of several important village sites visited on this cruise. "Each village – Cumshewa, Tanu, Kwuna (Skedans) and Skangwaii (Ninstints) reflects different aspects of Haida history. They all possess distinctive personalities and highlight different elements of Haida life," Kirkvold tells us.

Later that evening, we experience perhaps the most remarkable event of the trip. Clambering into Maple Leaf's inflatable shore boats, the group makes for shore to see close-up one of the great struggles in the animal kingdom. Tiny and impossibly cute ancient murrelet chicks emerge from their forest burrows on the near vertical slopes where they have just hatched. Exploding from these small tunnels the chicks begin the terrestrial journey to their parents, who await them at the water's edge. Now, hundreds of these nocturnal sea birds fill the sea. A visitor can't help but feel empathy for the little hatchlings and their remarkable struggle for survival. Returning to a welcome bunk at 3 a.m., this night is one that will not soon be forgotten.

Meandering southward down the east coast of Moresby Island, the Maple Leaf arrives at Hot Springs Island, noted for its geothermal pools right on the beach and its stunning views. We are now some 80 kilometres south of our departure port at Sandspit. Following lunch we're off to savour a relaxing and restorative soak in the 23-degree Celsius pools. We gaze westward to a view of the San Cristoval Mountains, overlooking Juan Perez Sound.

Restored, we round the southern tip of Moresby Island. Our destination is the renowned village of Skangwaii (Ninstints), located on the southwest coast of Moresby Island, some 200 kilometres from Sandspit. Recognized as a world heritage site by the United Nations, Skangwaii is home to the exceptional remains of 19 still-standing totem poles and several long houses. The majority of the weathered totems at this site are mortuary poles or tombs protecting the remains of Haida chiefs and important family members.

On the way back up the east coast of Moresby Island towards Sandspit, we climb once again into the inflatable shore boats to witness the bountiful intertidal sea life at Burnaby Narrows, a 50 metre wide channel connecting Juan Perez Sound and Skincuttle Inlet. This channel has been described as the most productive aquatic zone in North America and one of the biological wonders of the world. A wealth of colourful and fascinating species can be found here.

Thanks to the wealth of knowledge imparted by our naturalist, each of us is now highly conscious that these creatures are part of a delicate balance of nature, a fragile one that is always at risk. The newest threat is the oil and gas industry. If the provincial government's moratorium on offshore drilling is lifted as proposed, there would likely be a devastating environmental impact on and around this untouched land. Perhaps all those who wish to drill should sail with Maple Leaf. It might make them think twice.

Finally, the last leg of the expedition brings the sailboat and its no-longer novice sailors back to the north end of Moresby Island. We voyagers head out to our first stop of the day. Arriving at the village of Tanu, 50 kilometres from Sandspit, we immerse ourselves in learning and trying to genuinely understand just how the Haida lived. Illustrating the lesson are the resident relics – houses that the Haida built long ago.

After lunch aboard the Maple Leaf, we make our way to the last village we will visit, Kwuna (Skedans). Here, we continue to learn how the Haida lived. We see the remains of a house pit and the memorial totem poles lined family crests. So simple, yet so beautiful.

Now we understand Kirkvold when she tells us, "you really can't begin to understand this culture until you have been here."

After experiencing such an ethereal place, we finally grasp why the Haida people called this a "place of wonder."

IF YOU GO:

The cruise runs in the spring and fall with the next tours May 14-23 or May 24-June 2, 2002. For further information call 1-888-599-5323 or visit the website: www.mapleleafadventures.com.