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Travel Story

Homespun hospitality in a Malaysian homestay

While pulling away from the hustle and bustle of Kuala Lumpur, my sense of adventure is sparked by the search for a truly Malaysian "homestay" experience. We head south from the metropolis along the four-lane highway, and a canopy of lush vegetation soon replaces the urban jungle’s bumper to bumper gridlock. Although just a short 60 kilometres from Malaysia’s thriving capital, the village of Kampung Ulu Chuchoh feels as if it’s a world away.

The Banghuris Homestay Program, located in the Sepang district of Selangor, is comprised of three villages: Kampung Bukit Bangkong, Ulu Chuchuh and Ulu Teris. Within these communities, a total of 70 families are able to accommodate up to 300 people at any given time. Although the predominant language within each village is Malay, thanks to mandatory English programs provided in public education the younger generations are able to translate, when necessary, for the village elders.

The Chief of Kampung Ulu Chuchoh, and the head of the entire Bangsuris Homestay Program, Misriah BT Natijo, welcomes our group of 18 touring Canadians. In spite of his limited English, he graciously greets us with smiles and waves. "It is an honour to have you all here," our interpreter and guide relays, "and it is my hope that you enjoy learning more about our Malaysian roots."

His dark eyes dance with enthusiasm as he proudly gleams from ear to ear, and as the day progresses we gain more insight into his beliefs and how this program came to be.

Traditionally, these villages survived on a subsistence lifestyle, however after opening their homes to the world, they began to revolutionize their economy while maintaining their basic way of life. For a minimal cost of 60 ringgit per day, (1 ringgit = 0.345 Cdn) the program provides travellers from around the world with comfy accommodation, tasty cuisine and the opportunity to integrate into the daily workings of a Malay village.

Although not a five star hotel, the humble abode we visit is a quintessential Malaysian home that offers a blend of customary living with a touch of modern amenities. A communal living room creates an open and easy feel, and comfortable bedrooms provide a restful stay. Malaysian décor flows into the simple dining room where fans cool the humid air and bamboo mats replace conventional tables and chairs.

Heavenly aromas engulf us as we literally enjoy our first hand experience of Malaysian cuisine.

"Eat only with the right hand," we are informed by our host, "as the left is saved for wiping other body parts later."

He chuckles when sharing this customary etiquette, and although no elaboration is given, we can only assume this is not appropriate table talk. We adhere to the commands, and while sitting crossed-legged and free of the utensils, our right hands go to work.

Most of the ingredients for the traditional Malay meals are home grown within the Banghuris Homestay villages. Chicken, fish, seasonal veggies and steamed white rice meld deliciously with creamy curries and tantalizing spices to leave us feeling totally satisfied. It’s a hands on feast fit for any king, and one that can be literally described as being finger-lickin’ good!

To gain a true lifestyle experience, the Banghuris Homestay Program also offers visitors the opportunity to work directly with the locals. Some of the agricultural activities, around the villages include the production of palm oil, coffee, coconut, vegetables and rubber.

With a loud crash, a cluster of palm nuts falls to the ground and stops us in our tracks. We are amazed as we observe a local farmer effortlessly cut down the fruits of a massive tree and break them open to reveal their oily core. These trees grow in abundance, and it comes as no surprise to discover that Malaysia is rated as the world’s largest exporter of palm oil.

The Banghuris Homestay Program has also set aside 13 acres of agricultural space for a fruit orchard. As we meander through the maze of trees, we come upon a stake with our group’s name on it. "The planting of this tree celebrates your visit today," the chief proudly conveys to our guide. "When you return at a later date, you will witness not only its growth, but also the flourishing of our surrounding community."

During my day away from the modern mayhem of Kuala Lumpur, I reflect on the laid back lifestyle that I’ve had the pleasure to sample. Free of any frills and fluff, it has provided me with insights into a satisfying way of life. Comfortable living and gracious hospitality, combined with an intriguing culture in a setting of natural beauty. They’re all fine qualities and redeeming factors of the Banghuris Homestay Program.

To Get There: Daily flights are provided out of Los Angeles. If ticket is purchased from Vancouver, cost of airfare to L.A. is covered. Malaysian Airlines is well recognized for its superlative service, cuisine and hospitality. (1-800-552-9264) www.malaysiaairlines.com.my/

Where To Stay:

Contact Basir B. Wagiman

E-mail: farahman@tm.net.my

Tourism Malaysia:

http://tourism.gov.my

http://www.visitmalaysia.com

Tourism Malaysia: Phone 604-689-8899 (Toll Free: 1-800-689-6872);

Fax: 604-689-8804