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A south Croatian sanctuary full of warmth and beauty

Story and photos by Allison Gagnon Tucked away, along the rolling hillsides and behind the vast, dark mountains of Croatia, I found an untouched piece of paradise.
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Aside from the spectacular sights of this unspoiled village, it’s the charismatic, tiny community that shines.

Story and photos by Allison Gagnon

Tucked away, along the rolling hillsides and behind the vast, dark mountains of Croatia, I found an untouched piece of paradise. Pristine, crystal clear waters circle the rocky beaches and rugged coastline of the little fishing village of Molunat. It’s a south Croatian treasure, discovered purely by accident.

Situated directly on the Adriatic Sea, Molunat is protected by the islet of Veli Skolj. The 50 houses and about 150 inhabitants of the town share the area with crumbling Roman ruins, indicating a popular place in ancient times. Less than an hour away from the red-roofed city of Dubrovnik, and the Bosnia-Montenegro border, it is easily accessible — despite the infrequent buses.

I missed my ferry to the islands one morning. Instead, I hopped aboard a bus on a whim, in hopes of an adventure. The air-conditioned, distasteful coloured coach, turned into an after school special as about 20 Croatian children piled on.

I looked out the window. A freshly paved road led the way through the heavenly hillsides above Molunat. Lined with green Macchia trees and golden, grazed shrubbery, the scenery changed as we headed south and a subtropical climate was slowly revealed.

At Molunat, the bus pulled away and I was left standing in a confused whirl of dust beside a closed tourist information centre. At only 3 in the afternoon, the empty street resembled a deserted ghost town. Not a soul was around, but I could hear clearly the slight slapping of the sea on the shore. The blazing heat of the sun soaked my clothes. Maybe they have siesta in Croatia, I thought to myself.

In the distance I spotted an older woman walking towards me. Relieved at the sight of another human, I returned her warm smile with an ear-to-ear grin.

“Do you speak English?” I asked with enthusiasm.

“A little,” she replied in a thick Italian accent. She pointed to the fork in the road ahead of us. “There is a sunny way or a shady way to the main part of the village,” she said, “but follow me. I’m going this way.”

We took the shady way, and followed a sign to Camp Monika — and to a family eating lunch.

Upon asking where I could find the cheapest room in the village, Bozo, (pronounced Bono) a bright-eyed Molunat native replied, “Rooms? No rooms. You will camp.”

I motioned to my belongings. All I had was a small backpack. I began to regret not bringing a tent, a sleeping bag or at least something other than my all-purpose sarong to survive a night outside. Bozo insisted that I stay.

“We will give you everything.”

I turned to thank the woman who had brought me to this scenic sanctuary but to my surprise she was no longer by my side. Her act of generosity completed, she had returned to her everyday world in Molunat.

Camp Monika is one of three camps in the Molunat area. Established 36 years ago, the camp was one of the first of its kind Croatia.

Unaffected by the war and instability as the country emerged from its communist past, the citizens of Molunat rely completely on tourists to survive. Monika, a petite blonde from Germany, arrived as a tourist in 1976. She never left. It was love at first sight for her — not only the natural beauty of the surroundings but also Bozo Metkovic, the camp owner and caretaker.

They have since raised four beautiful children in this tiny community, their life built within this campsite. Between their campground, farmland, restaurant and family, not much free time remains, however they all shine with the charm and splendor of their environment.

The lush Mediterranean landscape and scenery around Camp Monika is saturated with beauty and the fertile farmland flourishes. Vineyards and olive trees thrive like flowers in a field. Lemons, oranges and figs grow plentiful on colourful fruit trees that glory under the blazing Croatian sunshine. Curative herbs and aromatic plants are cultivated in this area, while mint, rosemary, white fennel and holistic healing flowers grow wild.

Aside from the spectacular sights of this unspoiled village, it’s the charismatic, tiny community that shines. To absorb and understand a culture is to gain some appreciation of the people who make it their home.

To those lucky enough to land here, the generous individuals of this humble habitat radiate warmth. The rich vegetation and dramatic landscape is similarly warm and inviting. Together the two make Molunat a veiled gem of Croatia.

Camp Monika is located 40 km from city of Dubrovnik, 15 km from airport Cilipi. Direct bus from Dubrovnik three times a day. Camp capacity 150 people.

Bozo and Monika Metkovic

Croatia 20219 Molunat 10

Phone: +385/20/794-417

Fax: +385/20/794-557

www.camp-monika.hr

email: info@camp-monika.hr