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Island of the gods

Bali has been coined "Island of the Gods," which it is - friendly Balinese smiles; warm, clean ocean water; incredible flavour bursting fresh food; and magnificent scenery.
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Bali has been coined "Island of the Gods," which it is - friendly Balinese smiles; warm, clean ocean water; incredible flavour bursting fresh food; and magnificent scenery.

However, Bali also has a much less exotic side: HIV, AIDS, prostitution, family violence, environmental degradation - the same social challenges the rest of the world faces. Like every vacation destination, tourism has brought economic prosperity and with that many pressing problems. Bali's strength has been its capacity to adjust and adapt to globalization by doing its best to meet demands on its natural resources and Western influences.

In the 1930s author Miguel Covarrubias wrote in his book Island of Bali that social breakdown began when the Balinese were forced to pay property taxes to their Dutch colonists. (The Dutch arrived at the end of the 16 th century and took control in 1906. Bali became a part of the United States of Indonesia in 1949.) At that time locals were forced to sell whatever they had of value - jewelry, antiques - to tourists to pay their taxes, while theft and prostitution were also on the increase.

Today the island is home to 3,885,000 Balinese Indonesians. An estimated two million tourists visited last year. Tourists come for the surfing, the spas, the shopping, the cuisine, the culture, the ancient sites and the overall Balinese experience.

Despite the influxes of the 21 st century Bali is still a very spiritual island. For the Balinese, mountains are the home of the gods and along with lakes and rivers they represent all that is holy. They believe heights are for the gods, the middle for humans and the lower for the spirits of the underworld.

The island follows Agama Hindu Dharma, a combination of Hinduism and Balinese beliefs. Mystic and daily rituals are prevalent. Artistic offerings are made every morning and evening to honour the island's gods and spirits. Little squares of woven banana leaves carry rice; flowers, perhaps with salt and chili-peppers, are all quietly delivered and placed at the alters of businesses, at the entrance to front doors, on temple steps and other auspicious places. They are an expression of the people's devotion to the gods.

The reverence for tradition is everywhere. While driving around Bali, it is likely that one will eventually have to pull over by the side of the road and wait for a funeral procession of well-wishers to pass by. Their gongs and cymbals clang and all ages participate. As they travel from the cremation site to the temple, those in the procession are honouring their loved one's soul. Cremation is an important event as it's when the dead person's soul is released. Other than numerous pairs of Ray-Bans and noisy motorcycles, it appears as though the ceremony is the same as it has been for hundreds and hundreds of years.

The movie Eat, Pray, Love turned the spotlight on Bali's balians , traditional healers. Tourists have become infatuated with the art and science of healers. Traditionalists are concerned that it's becoming a tourist sideshow when what they do is serious business.

The healers work with plants, magnetism, meditation and massage to treat all ailments such as emotional or age related health issues, depression, strokes, psychological states and many other illnesses. Generally practitioners come from a lineage of healers, where the knowledge is passed down from father to son. Their work is esoteric and many believe the ancient knowledge is being lost as today's younger generation peruse other means to make a living.

When asked how the older generation feels about the influx of tourists, a local home stay (small guest house) manager gave a neutral reply: "As with everything, there are good things and not-so-good things." The fact is the ancient Balinese culture is fading, traditions and languages are vanishing - times are changing.

Residents say the influences of globalization have often been tough for the local culture to handle. In Bali, some have given in to profit to ensure their survival, which has rendered some traditions obsolete. For example, the sacred grounds of some Balinese temples have been manipulated by political interests. Temple custodians have accepted generous contributions from political candidates during temple ceremonies to garner votes.

Again, like many places on the planet, Bali has suffered brutal deforestation. Recently, the Balinese government allocated Rp66billion towards a reforestation project. It's a five-year project with the intent to reforest 25,346 hectares. Free seeding distribution centres have been set up around Bali and companies or individuals can obtain the tree seedlings free of charge. The target areas are inside or outside the village forests. For a developing nation, the project holds a great vision of where they want their future to be.

Yes, Bali has its fair share of difficulties. However, there are communities on Bali that are pro-active in introducing environmental awareness and gradually the consciousness is becoming more mainstream. Entrepreneurs in Bali have created interesting alternatives. Plastic bottles are transported to Java to be melted down and made into new products. Recycled newspaper bags have been around Bali for about five years. The Bali Buddha Café in Ubud employed a staff member's handicapped brother to make their newspaper bags; now five people are employed just to make the bags. Twines for the handles are made by twisting banana fibres. The project definitely helped make a difference in their lives. The income provided money for school supplies, better food and an overall higher standard of living.