When it comes to pit stops on any road trip—but especially with these too-early blazy, hazy, crazy days of summer— here are two “must-or-busts” in my books. One, it’s gotta be good. Two, it’s gotta be fast. And, if we’re lucky, it’ll also be super interesting.
Well, I’m happy to report that Britannia Beach has every base covered. So why do locals seldom stop there when heading to and from Whistler? God only knows, but maybe it’s got everything to do with being hypnotized by our personal road warrior fantasies and the exhaust from all the vehicles.
The old adage “life is the journey, not the destination” never appears in our rearview mirror, reminding us to take it easy, and pull over… into beautiful downtown Britannia Beach.
FORGET THE COPPER, HAVE FUN
Sure, there’s Outbound Station—the obvious quick and easy, and truly roadside stop at BB South (forgive my shorthand). Great coffee, and their burgers are to die for. But I’m talking about cruising into the old townsite itself, just a hop and a skip further north, and actually stopping to take it in on its 50th year as a real living museum.
Speaking of living museums, my first trip to Whistler was in 1981 to apply for a reporter’s job at The Whistler Question. It was spring and, I remind us all, it’s also still officially spring now for weeks. Only then, the havoc we’ve been wreaking with our climate that has generated the recent “early season heat events” with record-breaking temperatures in the 30s was still only on a few scientists’ radar screens. Let’s just say they warned us.
By comparison, my ’81 spring road trip was bloody cold. However, one of the most memorable bits was when I nearly drove off the road while gawking at whatever the hell that weird white building was, stepping up, up, the hillside at BB.
I soon learned—from none other than Jane Burrows herself, part of the interview team with Mr. B, as we fondly called Paul, her hubbie/partner in crime in starting The Question—all about the copper mine at Britannia Beach. Jane taught the miners’ kids there in the ’60s, long before there was an elementary school, or much else (never mind a newspaper) at Whistler.
Yep, you can learn online about the history of Britannia Mine including cool facts, like it was once the largest copper mine in the world. But there’s nothing like ditching the 2D digital world for the real thing.
First, the mine site is part of the Sḵwx̱wú7mesh (Squamish) Nation. Since the cliffs along Howe Sound’s eastern shores are so steep and the Indigenous people lived mostly along riverbanks, so far there’s only evidence of a small earlier settlement there. But during the mine’s operation (1904-1974), more than 60,000 people lived at Britannia—roughly three times the population of Squamish, and nearly four times that of Whistler today. Definitely lots of kids to teach then. And lots of cool things to discover now.
FIFTY YEARS AS A LIVING MUSEUM
In 1975, the Britannia site became the BC Museum of Mining (later renamed the Britannia Mine Museum). Overall, it’s as great a spot for TV and movie shoots (check out the museum’s photo gallery of stars), as for exploring. Historic buildings—like the Craftsman-style dining room and bunkhouse; the elegant engineering offices; the charming manager’s bungalow—have been gorgeously restored. A perfect achievement for the site’s 50th anniversary.
Many restored structures are in use today, largely aimed at that idea of a good, fast road stop. Or, better, a place to hang out. Like at Copper Beach Bar & Grill (get it? Copper beech trees?). With its cozy deck facing the huge, white No. 3 mill building, now a National Historic Site, Copper Beach is located in “The Dry”—a 1930s building where miners showered and hung their wet clothes to dry for the next shift before bunking down for the night.
Autostrada Oyster Bar and Grill will open in July, and Chatterbox Cafe is located in—where else?—the old telegraph office. But one of our favourites was the Kawartha Dairy store, opened in April in the old white church.
You’ll think you’ve already died and gone to heaven once you taste the gorgeous ice cream from this Ontario dairy, which is also circa 1930s. Rich, creamy, and not too sweet; made with real ingredients like real maple syrup. They also serve lactose-free ice cream—a rarity. (Tip: Don’t be fooled by the ironic name “baby” for the smallest serving: It’s a giant scoop the size of a softball! A really big softball.)
Another literally cool surprise was the freshly renovated General Store. With its huge, shaded deck and array of carefully curated take-out foods and groceries, it feels like a “magical” store—compact, pleasant, with the kind of tasty, very local products we always wish for in one spot. Best—prices are fair!
On impulse, we decided rather than a resto meal on the way home, as planned, we’d have an impromptu picnic at beautiful Porteau Cove. In minutes we had bags of goodies, including Vancouver’s Not Too Sweet Craft Ginger Beer (made with pear juice); a round of Little Qualicum Cheeseworks’ delicious Island Brie; that great Portofino bread from Victoria; and Two Rivers Meats’ yummy fennel salami sticks straight from North Vancouver. (Love their cheeky message: Once opened, consume within seven days or one sitting. We don’t judge.)
Nor will I judge you if you decide to have dinner at a café or restaurant instead. But I will share this: What we paid for our Britannia General Store groceries was less than dinner for two, plus we had enough for several more lunches—maybe a packed one for our next road trip to Britannia Beach as a destination, not just en route.
Glenda Bartosh is an award-winning journalist who’s always up for a road trip, but still wishes spring was spring.
